The printer is prone to break and slip because the design uses thin wire to move the carriages up and down. I'd like to convert my printer over to using a belt like the one on this page, but the conversion kit is no longer available. I believe I can 3D print the carriages, but would anyone be able to point me toward the resources to convert my printer over to using a toothed belt?
Contact Brian or Lykle. We all have Boots Industries printers and have heavily modified it to belt drive and magnetic effectors. The print quality has improved drastically. The old Boots support group has since moved on to Slack and we are in constant contact everyday.
I am working on a DLP based 3D printer. I already sliced my STL file to multiple layers. Each layer is saved as a SVG file. Because its an SVG file, I can always convert each layer to PNG/JPG file if desired. I have a TI DLP Lightcrafter 4500 module connected to my laptop using the HDMI. The DLP shows up as a second monitor on my laptop. I am using LabVIEW to control all components of the printer. Question 1: How I can programmatically display my desired image file on the DLP projector. I would prefer to use Python or LabVIEW to display my desired image onto the entire screen of the DLP
12V/24V Perfect for Prusa i3 3D Printer. Note: this is not a shopping question, I am merely providing a background to my questions. While the RepRap wiki is full of information, the information can.... I am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated... not sure if this should be a separate question) I would have also asked whether aluminium PCB heatbeds are worth the additional cost, over standard PCB heatbeds, but for the slightly less common
I'm popping my cherry here, so to speak. Refer to my Hackaday project for system details & pictures: Sciclone 3D Printer Conversion Repurposing a lab-grade liquid handling system to a 3D printer...-dollar lab machine into a 3D printer with very high performance capabilities and 14 cubic feet of production volume. Although FDM is certainly a realistic "no-brainer" capability for this setup, I believe this level of accuracy, speed and volume - not to mention the original cost being well over $100K - justifies a finer level of output and I believe Stereolithography (SLA) is what I'd like
voxels to create the appearance of a color, just like monitors display colors. As far as I know only HP Jet Fusion 3D printer uses this process, but it uses a process vastly different from normal diy 3D... theoretical assumptions. I just discovered 3D printing and I am in the planning phase of building my first 3D printer, so I am a total n00b in this. Please correct any assumptions I got wrong. ... that means even the 3 input diamond hotend is actually mixed like CMYK. Repetier firmware v92.9 has this built in with support up to 16 inputs for a nozzle, but Marlin firmware v1.0.x only supports 4
You may want to use this code to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares. From Final Step in the RAMPS 1.4 Wiki There's a bunch of code in the sketch, and it looks to me like it just makes a component run, or heat up, for a little but and then move on to the next component, and do the same thing is that about right? Well if I'm testing this out and my printer is already for the most part assembled; should I set the stepper jumpers to something larger like a full turn, or half step, so I can see the motors move? Because I've also read
I was very excited to get my 3d printer but sadly I didn't realise I'd installed the z axis upside down. There's a plastic coupler that goes into the hole for the polished rods it broke then released 1 -2mm sized ball bearing all over my floor. Is it possible to just replace that coupler thingy? Or if I 3d print a replacement will it still need that coupler thingy? The first picture is the one that spilled it's guts all over my kitchen floor. The last image is an example of how it used to look like but on the left hand side. I know the image looks like it's the right but you can see
could build a custom version of the firmware to install on my printer, and in doing so I could potentially specify a better conversion table. This gives me pause for several reasons: I haven't found any online reference to other people installing a custom Repetier build on a Wanhao I3. I have no idea what values to use for the temp conversion table. I can't even find anyone else reporting my.... I believe the the firmware is using the wrong temperature curve for the thermistor in my device. I had hoped that there was a simple scaling constant that I could adjust, but that doesn't seem
of the steel plate. Therefore I would like to substitute the steel plate for another material. I had considered aluminium, as recommended by the RepRap wiki - P3Steel/Frame Versions/ Version 4.0 : We recomended use aluminum beds for y axis. However, it was suggested, by a vendor, that I use laser cut 6 mm thick MDF, principally for reasons of economics and availablity, over aluminium. I... of deformation of the MDF due to humidity/temperature? Notes 1 I found this question after having written up my question, so I admit that there is a risk of duplicity of the answers. However, I am
in the this thingiverse project, so it can be the input into my OEM Power Supply via the black (hot - L), white (Common - N) and Green (Ground) wires. For the connecting wires I stripped a black PC Tower wire to get at the black, white, and ground wires inside it. http://reprap.org/wiki/Power_Supply#OEM_type_PSU ...I ordered an OEM Power Supply and I intend to hook up with this rocker switch I believe it's like the one specified in the Power Supply Documentation which reads: In the US, IEC320 C14 plug