I'm popping my cherry here, so to speak. Refer to my Hackaday project for system details & pictures:
Sciclone 3D Printer Conversion Repurposing a lab-grade liquid handling system to a 3D printer featuring 3 axis, 20 micron bi-directional repeatability on a 14 cubic foot build platform. https://hackaday.io/project/3212-sciclone-3d-printer-conversion
I have an opportunity to repurpose a high-dollar lab machine into a 3D printer with very high performance capabilities and 14 cubic feet of production volume. Although FDM is certainly a realistic "no-brainer" capability for this setup, I believe this level of accuracy, speed and volume - not to mention the original cost being well over $100K - justifies a finer level of output and I believe Stereolithography (SLA) is what I'd like to concentrate on. With such a large printing surface/volume (37"X x 24"Y x 28"Z), I don't know how I would implement a DLP projector to cover such a large surface and still maintain the level of accuracy and resolution.
This system is already equipped with the highest quality stepper motors and a "staccato" high-speed driver-controller, an on-board pneumatic & electrical 6-channel controller that could be used for selecting colors, resin injection/flow, resin tank elevation, curing LEDs, temperature/ventilation fans, laser scanning, router speed, etc. The X & Y movement guide bars are located in the upper deck, moving the Z axis component assembly. That assembly requires simplification to enable it to be downsized to allow for the printer output to reach closer to the perimeter of the output area, but the weight & bulk of the assembly is greater than any DLP projector that would take its place so this system can reliably perform with a heavier projector if necessary.
Basically, I think I'm looking for a software-defined method of coordinating the X & Y movement of the projector's output to the printing surface (presumable a tray of photo-sensitive SLA resin). Since the projector's proximity to the printing surface must remain relatively close, the output will be constrained to an area significantly smaller than this platform's entire printable surface, the projector's output will have to "play a movie" of the model and instead of projecting still images, I believe it would require an animated output that exposes the resin to build models. Sort of like a silk screen process but with UV light.
I'm slightly familiar with the concept of manipulating laser beams using micro mirror aiming devices to draw on SLA resin beds - and this is a possible solution if I knew where to find such a component and how to control it, but that kind of printing would be far too slow for making large-scale models because it would essentially almost as slow as a pen plotter.
Is anyone aware of an existing method of integrating the "moving picture" method I'm thinking of, or have I envisioned something that hasn't been invented yet?
differently, but essentially everything works except the Z-Axis. Problem: The one issue that I seem to be having is with any kind of movement with the Z-Axis. When it moves, whether from the LCD... aligned and the entire Z/X-Axis carriage moves very freely along the vertical rails. The bearings appear to be fine. I then wanted to narrow it down to being the firmware, and not electrical. For the record, maybe I'm missing something obvious, so please let me know. I measured the voltage on my A4988 stepper drivers on the RAMPS 1.4 board, sitting on the Arduino Mega2560 R3, and it is reading
in the direction of the bed movement. Each block was printed at different speed, from medium to dead-slow. I limited the acceleration and in the last block I also limited the non-printing speed so the bed would never experience a higher acceleration than with the printing itself. But the wave effect remains. And it's also remarkably repeatable so it looks more like a synchronisation error somewhere. Does...I've built a a PrintrBot inspired printer with a moving printbed for the X-Axis movement. It's controlled by a RAMPS board running Marlin firmware. And there is a problem with the X-Axis positioning
. I am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated... 12V/24V Perfect for Prusa i3 3D Printer. Note: this is not a shopping question, I am merely providing a background to my questions. While the RepRap wiki is full of information, the information can... not sure if this should be a separate question) I would have also asked whether aluminium PCB heatbeds are worth the additional cost, over standard PCB heatbeds, but for the slightly less common
I'm trying to line up the physical print bed of my printer (Printrbot Simple Metal) to the virtual print area of the slicer (Cura). So far, they've never been properly aligned. It was never that big a problem because, worst case scenario, my print would simply not be dead-center on the bed. But I've decided to try and fix it. Here are pictures of a test model in Cura, and the resulting physical print: What's the proper way to align the two? It seems I just got lucky with the x-axis here (though note that the BuildTak surface is a bit off center). But obviously the y-axis needs fixing
like the option to get above 100°C bed temp. Am I on the right track? Suggestions? I'm still pretty new to the device and 3D printing in general, so I may have overlooked something obvious. Update... could build a custom version of the firmware to install on my printer, and in doing so I could potentially specify a better conversion table. This gives me pause for several reasons: I haven't found any online reference to other people installing a custom Repetier build on a Wanhao I3. I have no idea what values to use for the temp conversion table. I can't even find anyone else reporting my
I would like to obtain a 3D model of my insoles. I tried to scan it with 123D catch but finding reference points is difficult because the insole is black. How could I improve the scanning? I attach a photo of the insole to show its not easy shape. I thought about placing a grid of white spots on the surface, but will it be enough? Also, is it recommended to keep the camera still and rotate... the same way, so that if I change the pitch of the insole by about 10 degrees, they will be horizontal. Would it improve the accuracy? Edit: the insole is perfectly new, newer worn before. Update I
. It doesn't ever seem to go more than 5 minutes before clogging. When it clogs, and I pull out the filament, it is always twisted in a spiral (helix) shape like a corkscrew. I have put a picture of 2.... It had been printing fine with ABS, but the ABS would peel up from the heated bed, so somebody suggested that I use PLA and hairspray. Hairspray is AWESOME !! It sticks really well and removes... and curls which makes it NOT push itself into the heated tip and out onto whatever I'm printing. The solution would be to find some way to cool this 1 inch shaft between the heat sink and the heated head so
I was very excited to get my 3d printer but sadly I didn't realise I'd installed the z axis upside down. There's a plastic coupler that goes into the hole for the polished rods it broke then released 1 -2mm sized ball bearing all over my floor. Is it possible to just replace that coupler thingy? Or if I 3d print a replacement will it still need that coupler thingy? The first picture is the one that spilled it's guts all over my kitchen floor. The last image is an example of how it used to look like but on the left hand side. I know the image looks like it's the right but you can see
initially (this is my first ever 3D print and I wanted to know how accurate it would be). I then used Dremel and filing tools to file away about 0.5 mm of both the surfaces. It should have been enough... the individual part files as well as their assembly where you can use your mouse cursor to check how they move. Click here for the SolidWorks parts and assembly files Initially when I 3d printed them... in cross section. It meets the inner tube at the the two ends of the semicircle and not inside its belly (you can see it in the picture). I have already tried the obvious, which is removing material