In the US, IEC320 C14 plug connections are common, but use your preferred standard.
I've also seen where this was attached in this thingiverse project.
Inside the switch I've also added an F4AL250V fuse.
Now what's confusing me is, that the this rocker switch on the back reads 10A 250V~ so I'm wondering if it's safe to use.
The switch will be connected to the house mains via a plug and wired just like in the this thingiverse project, so it can be the input into my OEM Power Supply via the black (hot - L), white (Common - N) and Green (Ground) wires.
For the connecting wires I stripped a black PC Tower wire to get at the black, white, and ground wires inside it.
At 250V a rating for 10A means 2500 Watts, which is fairly enough to use with a typical 3D printer. Make sure that the wire you use to connect the switch to the power supply can also take the current you need. Easiest way to get a cable that is safe to use is salvaging a mains cable from other devices. I would not use wires that were made for low power use and with unsolid connections.
*edit: I'm still not sure which cable you intended to use from this tower PC. If it is a mains cable like this
you should be on the safe side.
The power supply that you posted is 12v 360w. This means that (in the USA with 120v power), it will draw 3 amps at 120v. Your switch is rated for 10A at 250V so it works.
The switch should be placed to interrupt the HOT wire coming from the wall to your power supply.
If you happen to be using 240v power, it is also safe as you would be drawing 1.5 amps at 240v which is still within the spec of the switch.
From what I understand, when you hook up the Switching Power Supply 12v Dc 30a 360w to the wall outlet, you have to be very careful; careful not to get the wires mixed up; careful not to have anyone or anything touch the leads (in fact the first proper project I intend to print out will be a casing to fit around the switching power supply), or just order one from someone. Now there are three... wires are also insulated, and when you take the insulation off the bare wires and connect it to the power supply, you have to use Electrical connectors of some sort to connect them to the power
I'm still looking at wires for my Prusa i3, to go between the power supply and RAMPS 1.4, and the power supply and the MK2a Heatbed. I also recently found a 400 ft. Wire Storehouse that I bought from Harbor Freight which has wire sizes in it from AWG 10 through AWG 22 (and additionally speaker wire, Zip Cord and Bell). I also bought some reading material, I picked up Wiring Simplified 44th... being at 60 C. As far as I can tell if I use the AWG 10 (TW?) to connect everything it won't matter, but I just thought I'd check here to be sure first since my power supply is rated at 30 AMPs
You may want to use this code to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares. From Final Step in the RAMPS 1.4 Wiki There's a bunch of code in the sketch, and it looks to me like it just makes a component run, or heat up, for a little but and then move on to the next component, and do the same thing is that about right? Well if I'm testing this out and my printer is already for the most part assembled; should I set the stepper jumpers to something larger like a full turn, or half step, so I can see the motors move? Because I've also read
I obtained the following wire 22 Gauge Stranded Hookup Wire from Radio Shack: Type/Style: AWM/1007 Wire Gauge: 22 AWG Insulation Thickness: AVE. 0.42 mm Rated Voltage: 300V Temperature Rating: 80°C / 176°F Use Limitation: Internal wiring of appliances; or where exposed to oil at a temperature not exceeding 60°C or 80°C, whichever is applicable.. Tags may indicate the following: 600V Peak - For Electronic Use Only. I'd like to be able to hook up RAMPs 1.4 to my switching power supply with this wire. Will this work okay?
Wondering if this fuse is safe to use in this switch/plug to turn on /off a 12V DC 30A Power Supply 360W Power Supply that will power a RAMPS 1.4 board for a Prusa i3 with an external led display that contains an SD Card Reader. I found the suggestion to use it here.
tally to 4 inputs. It still needs a white filament to print white, so that means 5 inputs. And while we are at it, probably a 6th input would be useful: like for printing black infill (to save using... a RGB palette. They don't have to be these colors, but I believe RGB would give the maximum range of colors when constrained to 3. However true RGB in physical printing would use separate colored voxels to create the appearance of a color, just like monitors display colors. As far as I know only HP Jet Fusion 3D printer uses this process, but it uses a process vastly different from normal diy 3D
You may want to use this code to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares. I'm planning on: Flashing the test firmware onto the Arduino Mega 2560... the trimpot down all the way, and then back up 1/4th of the way. Plugging in 1 NEMA 17 motor to the X-Axis. Connecting 5A DC input into RAMPS 1.4 (not plugged in). Finally plugging it in and seeing if the motor moves for 5 seconds. Now my question is, if I'm going to do this to test out a single NEMA 17 motor, do I need to comment out the rest of the test code before loading the firmware?
I have Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops, and I'm building a Prusa i3 Rework. I've recently gotten the x-axis to move, but it needs to stop when it gets to the end and it does not do that; I end up... on the board: S (signal) - (ground) + (VCC) My Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops have 4 connectors!!! According to their website, left to right with the white connector facing you, they are as follows...): S (signal) -> S - (ground) -> Normally Open (NO) + (VCC) -> VCC nothing -> Normally Closed (NC) ...but! Screwing this up by either using the wrong firmware of selecting the wrong wire frys
of ending up using too much ampage just trying to heat the bed in the winter months...(and I don't mean my bed). Is there anything I should look out for in terms of using the either the cheap power supply I already have, or are there certain specs on a new not-so-cheap power supply that I ought to be using instead? ...My 12V DC 30A Power Supply 360W Power Supply is really cheap, and it's worked well for setting up the motors; but now that I'm on to the heated bed, which uses considerably more Ampage than