I have a project in the 3D printing. the aim of the project is to realize the control of the 3D printing.
the type of the printer is a printer with cables.
the problem seems to have some development both in mechanical and robotics engineering.
first of all, as our tutor said, we should find the dynamical and the geometrical equations and from those equations, we can find the algorithm to control the system of the 3 D printing.
Well, my question is particularly about the dynamical equations in 2D as you can see in the picture above.
the idea is to find equations of : - L1 and L2 in terms of xa and ya : which I already found as you can see in the picture - xa and ya and teta in terms of L1 and L2: which I cannot find ! I would lilke you to help in this point.
thank you in advance
And here, I add the dynamic equations and I would like you to check if it is ok
As shown, the mechanics are under-constrained. You can't solve for theta because you have three degrees of freedom (X, Y, theta) and only two constraints (L1, L2). Gravity will tend to bias theta in a particular orientation, but the geometrical stiffness of this arrangement will be so low that it will not be possible to do 3D printing.
To calculate the free-hanging orientation of theta, you will need to know the center of gravity of the end-effector, and solve a system of equations to find the angles and tensions for each cable that produce force vectors which sum to equilibrium with the gravity force vector through the COG. Unfortunately, the tensions will be a function of the angles, so it's not trivial to solve. As a hint, the virtual intersection of the two cables will be coincident with or directly above the COG in all equilibrium positions, and the horizontal components of the tensions in the two cables will be equal.
I was very excited to get my 3d printer but sadly I didn't realise I'd installed the z axis upside down. There's a plastic coupler that goes into the hole for the polished rods it broke then released 1 -2mm sized ball bearing all over my floor. Is it possible to just replace that coupler thingy? Or if I 3d print a replacement will it still need that coupler thingy? The first picture is the one that spilled it's guts all over my kitchen floor. The last image is an example of how it used to look like but on the left hand side. I know the image looks like it's the right but you can see
of the layers so I think it must have something to do with slicing settings, but I'm at a loss for what I need to change to fix it. See below for images of the issue. On the orange piece near the right hand side you can see light shining through the gap. The black cube has it at the top, though it's not deep enough to let light through like with the orange one. There is also an image of the layer preview which shows the same gap. I have a Rostock Max v2 (stock hot end). I am using Matter control using mostly stock settings, I've tweaked around layer height, speed, and temp but I don't think those
My printed objects have horizontal holes in them (as seen I the picture below): This doesn't only look bad it also makes the object break at the seems. Looking carefully at the printing process I can see that after a retraction there's a small amount of time the hotend isn't extruding plastic. Material: PLA, Printer Robo 3D R1+, Slicer: Cura
I'm trying to set up OctoPrint on my Linux Ubuntu 16.04 desktop to work with my Micro3D printer. The printer works fine on Mac and Windows: I've installed OctoPrint with the M3D Fio Plugin Manager. I can see the files in ~/.octoprint/ fine and I can even turn the printer fan on/off, move the extruder, etc. through OctoPrint: But when I press the blue "Print button", there is no response. Also the files in the "upload" section are greyed out. Must I download a slicing program or something? I'm new with 3D printing in general but not with Linux. Grateful for help!
My company has an old Dimension SST printer that is out of commission due to a few broken pieces. I have contacted the Stratsys folk and they won't do anything until we purchase a multi-thousand dollar service policy. I also have a Makerbot that I can use to create spare parts however, can't find pictures of the original configuration. The broken pieces are the Toggle Bar and Z Foam Sensor... parts? Does anyone have detailed pictures (360 view) of the print head they are willing to share so I can recreate the parts/attachments. Thank you so much for any help!
I have bought myself an I3 3D printer - it comes with a thermistor which is then placed into a hole in the hotend and held in place by a grub screw. Sadly due to my lack of care I managed to crush the wires with a pair of vice pliers whilst trying to remove the nozzle as it was clogged. I have since unblocked it but now every time I turn on the 3D printer instead of giving a minimum... amplifier board (the one that Marlin supports, I forget the name)? The thermocouple I have in mind is one that has the junction exposed (see image below), does this matter? I plan to re-route
solution if I knew where to find such a component and how to control it, but that kind of printing would be far too slow for making large-scale models because it would essentially almost as slow as a pen...I'm popping my cherry here, so to speak. Refer to my Hackaday project for system details & pictures: Sciclone 3D Printer Conversion Repurposing a lab-grade liquid handling system to a 3D printer featuring 3 axis, 20 micron bi-directional repeatability on a 14 cubic foot build platform. https://hackaday.io/project/3212-sciclone-3d-printer-conversion I have an opportunity to repurpose a high
the thermistor coming loose. One advantage is that it can be reassembled arbitrarily often, since just pulling out the heater cartridge also pulls out the thermistor without damaging it. Note that the picture shows PTFE sleeving which restricts the temperature, but you could easily use fibreglass in this situation as well. Another solution is the stud thermistor: It screws into the hole that is normally...E3D hotends use a thermistor whose legs are insulated with glass fiber sleeving and clamped down with a screw and washer: This solution enables the printing of high temperature materials
The Sainsmart Endstops I picked up are different from the ones described in the RepRap Prusa i3 Rework electronics assembly wiki; they have 4 female plugs that go into the RAMPS 1.4 board instead of 3: Since these endstops are different, how do I hook them up, and what do the markings on them mean?