This is were I bought it from. http://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Desktop-Accuracy-Self-Assembly-Tridimensional/dp/B00N7I1ZVU
Assuming your electronics are open source (such as RAMPS), you can buy upgrades and spare parts from pretty much every 3D printer spare part provider out there, as long as they suit your needs and the specs of your printer.
In other words, if you want make a headbed upgrade, find some bed that i.e.:
In general, most DIY hobby desktop 3D printers today use more or less the same components mounted in various ways.
. I am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated Bed Hot Bed for RepRap 3D Printer 12V + Wiring + NTC 3950 Thermistor - Upgrade you Prusa i3 for LARGE Printsize, or this cheaper MK3, Anycubic Dual Power MK3 Heatbed 300*200*3mm Aluminum Heat Bed 12V/24V Perfect for Prusa i3 3D Printer. Note: this is not a shopping question, I am merely providing a background to my questions. While the RepRap wiki is full of information, the information can
guide RepRap - Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide all3dp.com - 16 Common 3D Printing Problems (And Solutions) Do you have an idea what can cause this issue? Update I did a new print, where I just...I recently upgraded to a E3D full hotend and I started to have problems with slowly printed parts. After I print first object and start next one, then the first layer has serious issue. The first two test were extruded around 10mm/s, the right one around 15mm/s. The material is PLA (fillamentum.com) at temperature 210°C and nozzle diameter is 0.4mm. The Rebel II RepRap printer uses RAMPS
As you can see in the picture, my heated bed support is too low on the right side, even touching the Y-axis chassis end plate. This is only the case on the front of the printer. The back is perfectly straight. Do you know how this can happen and what can be done?
I was very excited to get my 3d printer but sadly I didn't realise I'd installed the z axis upside down. There's a plastic coupler that goes into the hole for the polished rods it broke then released 1 -2mm sized ball bearing all over my floor. Is it possible to just replace that coupler thingy? Or if I 3d print a replacement will it still need that coupler thingy? The first picture is the one that spilled it's guts all over my kitchen floor. The last image is an example of how it used to look like but on the left hand side. I know the image looks like it's the right but you can see
I'm trying to set up OctoPrint on my Linux Ubuntu 16.04 desktop to work with my Micro3D printer. The printer works fine on Mac and Windows: I've installed OctoPrint with the M3D Fio Plugin Manager. I can see the files in ~/.octoprint/ fine and I can even turn the printer fan on/off, move the extruder, etc. through OctoPrint: But when I press the blue "Print button", there is no response. Also the files in the "upload" section are greyed out. Must I download a slicing program or something? I'm new with 3D printing in general but not with Linux. Grateful for help!
This is my problem: I'm assembling a 3D printer with the RAMPS 1.4 board and Arduino Mega. I have assembled the structure and the electronics (set drivers, placed the jumpers, connected stepper... the printer which did do some movement. The printer worked perfectly. After a few tests, however, I've noticed that the Arduino was restarting several times and at one point I saw a component... through the voltage regulator, thereby heating it up. I then proceeded to buy another Arduino Mega. I also checked the voltage of my 12V 360W power supply and it is correct. I always powered the Arduino
I'm having some issues when connecting to the printer via USB, see Wanhao i3 PLUS restarts when connecting USB. After some research I thought I would try to remove the auto-reboot jumper. Now that the i3 Plus uses a custom board instead of the standard Melzi, I'm not sure where to find it. See pictures attached:
My company has an old Dimension SST printer that is out of commission due to a few broken pieces. I have contacted the Stratsys folk and they won't do anything until we purchase a multi-thousand... and whatever parts used to hold them in place on the head. Toggle Bar circled in red View of my printer where the toggle bar used to be Two Questions: Does anyone know of a location to purchase spare parts? Does anyone have detailed pictures (360 view) of the print head they are willing to share so I can recreate the parts/attachments. Thank you so much for any help!
I want to print people's bodies scanned (or get 'minimes', see the Figure 1). And I watched that the printer 'project 660' is very good to do this (Figure 1). But, the price of that printer is really expensive, roughly $60'000. And If you want to get a 'minime' printed by that printer, the cost is $230 for a model of 10cm. For me that price is expensive too. Does anyone know what printer I could use in order to print 'minimes' with: Good resolution, or details of the person's face (for a model of 10cm) and a good smooth surface of the model printed (Figure 1). Ability to print complex