There is a 3D desktop printer RepRap which can print most of its own components.
Assuming each printed printer will print the next one and so on. Are there any limitation how many times this can be achieved?
For example somebody printed for me printer and I do the same for my friends and they do the same for theirs. Can this go forever (since 3D model stays the same), or there are any serious side-effects/disadvantages of doing that continuously?
As long as you maintain each printer and keep a proper calibration, go for it, this is what they were designed to do, I've even made replacement parts for myself.
Unfortunately the RepRap project just shut down on 1/15/16 due to their lack of sales.
I have a reprap that came from a reprap, and has made another reprap.
Just make sure that when printing out the pieces for the next you are properly calibrated, otherwise the next machine might be built crooked;
Your only limitations will be the electronics pieces and the small amount of hardware that you will need to buy.
The files used to print these objects are digital, and do not degrade in any way after each printing. There are no side effects or degradation that occurs over time due simply to printing them multiple times.
This is the RepRap philosophy, and the machines are actually designed with enough tolerance for printing and building mistakes that even if the print isn't perfect, it will not only work fine, but it can print a printer better than it was printed, with some care and attention to calibration.
The process still takes a lot of human intervention, in the way of building the new printer and properly calibrating it. If there are errors in the printer or the prints it produces, they can almost always be attributed to the builder/calibrator/user, and not to the design or the fact it's the Nth generation of printer.
The reprap printers have often been compared to plants, providing fruits to you and the possibility to reproduce themselves.
This analogy holds in both good and bad ways. Any life form can reproduce itself only so often without artefacts (mutations) being introduced.
It takes a bit of skill to build, configure and run a reprap printer. While the parts can be passed on, that doesn't necessarily hold for gained experience. Chances are that the parts your printer produces are not as good as those that you have received to build the printer. At least not until you caught up on the learning curve.
A reprap has a lot other parts that are not printed and can vary in quality independently from the printed parts. It makes a difference what steel rods are used, what driver circuit for the motors, etc. If you give printed parts away that are as good as those that you received yourself, the added parts are not necessarily as good as your.
My recommendation would be that you and your friends get printer parts from that somebody and you build your printers together. While giving parts to others is a great thing, building 3D printers together with friends is greater.
With fdm printers, the 3D object that should be printed can be positioned anywhere in the build volume. But it's only practical to place it on the bottom, because otherwise support material would be necessary. stereolithography has the same problem. Even though the photopolymer can be cured at any position in the build volume, the result would drift away if it was not held in place by support material. The powderbed based printers (either powder+binder or any of the laser/electron beam sintering/melting variants) do not have this problem, because they continuously fill the entire build
This is my first time calibrating my printer and I'm not sure where to start. The printer is running Repetier v0.91 firmware that came on the SD card that came with the printer. Anyway, the question I have is where do I start calibrating and how would I go about it? I have read on Google many ways and it seems there are different opinions. I am reading this at the moment: RepRap Wiki - Calibration.
programmable ROM like what must be on the Arduino board storing the firmware degrades a little, each time you write to it. Right now I'm trying to calibrate away another print problem, and I think I need to modify the firmware yet again, which I've already done several times. So I'm starting to worry about how many times I can do that. Well, once I remembered the acronym "EEPROM", and after a little...? Wouldn't it be a single blip of data? And if so how many cycles would the average Marlin file consume? I also found this but I'd be very surprised if I've uploaded to it more than 2000 times
the printer which did do some movement. The printer worked perfectly. After a few tests, however, I've noticed that the Arduino was restarting several times and at one point I saw a component... that the endstops can cause this problem. I have these endstops: 1 PZ di Alta Qualità Finecorsa Meccanico Per rampe Reprap 1.4 stampante 3D Con imballaggio indipendente kit fai da te and I connected...This is my problem: I'm assembling a 3D printer with the RAMPS 1.4 board and Arduino Mega. I have assembled the structure and the electronics (set drivers, placed the jumpers, connected stepper
guide RepRap - Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide all3dp.com - 16 Common 3D Printing Problems (And Solutions) Do you have an idea what can cause this issue? Update I did a new print, where I just...I recently upgraded to a E3D full hotend and I started to have problems with slowly printed parts. After I print first object and start next one, then the first layer has serious issue. The first two test were extruded around 10mm/s, the right one around 15mm/s. The material is PLA (fillamentum.com) at temperature 210°C and nozzle diameter is 0.4mm. The Rebel II RepRap printer uses RAMPS
I use a Micro3D printer, running on OctoPi (yay!) (although this question should be relevant to any 3D printer that offers these features) and have options for raft and wave bonding. Are there best case scenarios for when it is appropriate to use (or NOT use) either? Can/should they ever both be used at the same time?
A few weeks ago a shift between layers in the y-direction (from the front to the back of the printer) of my Makerbot Replicator 2 appeared. All prints have some small shifts between layers, but if the extruder has to move large distances (e.g. when I print the same object near the front and near the back of the print bed), they can reach up to 2 cm or so. In those cases the extruder seem... at the back. Here's an example of some small shifts in the 3D benchy (printed near the front of the bed). They are particularly obvious in the hull and in the supports of the cabin: I've tightened
I noticed 3Dsystems has Multi Jet 3D printing where wax is used provide support and give users with high resolution 3D printed objects. I was wondering if there were cheaper and smaller Multi Jet 3D printing? Can Form 1+ from FormLabs be considered to do the same job with resin?
with the settings in Repetier-Host to see what I could come up with. In printer settings I got everything set up besides the Max Volume Per Sec. How do I figure this number out? I also messed with the settings...I have a HE3D Prusa XI3 Specs are linked here. Its came with a MK8 Extruder, and I ordered the 0.3mm nozzle with it. I have Repetier v.91 loaded onto the printer right now, and Repetier-Host v1.5.4 on my computer. I have been able to print the test object that came on the SD with ok quality but when I switch to using the computer it just doesn't work at all. It starts up and heats the bed