I want to 3D-print some parts that will be later joined together along a seam. When modeling these separate parts, what are some methods that work well with 3D-printed pieces? For example, if I were doing wood working, I might choose dowel and pin joints or mortise and tenon joints or glue overlapping pieces. What methods translate well into use with 3D-printed plastics? How does the answer change depending on the orientation of the joint along the printing direction?
One of my favorite techniques is to join pieces with screws, and include a tapered feature that helps align the parts. A single screw can give a very strong joint, that is well-aligned and won't twist. Another advantage is that such joints can be printed in any orientation, since the tapered feature can be designed with 45 degree angles.
Here is a cross-section example of such a joint:
it together easily. I've generally heard mixed reviews about different printer sets and I don't have the budget to get one of the higher end models. Found this little number on Amazon : [REPRAPGURU] DIY RepRap Prusa I3 3D Printer Kit With Molded Plastic Parts USA Company https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E06IHJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_PgmYxb6DMARET Given the pieces of requirements, do you see this working...I'm new to the 3D printing world, but I've been doing some research over the past couple weeks. I need a printer that is decent enough to make prototypes using simple 3D software (I use Blender
I've been reading and experimenting with Acetone vapour smoothing on some printed ABS parts. My problem is that I need to selectively smoothen the printed parts which vapor smoothing doesn't allow. In particular, the cogs, whose sides I was trying to make smooth ended, up with smooth rounded tips, which was a disappointment. An example of what I was trying to smoothen is would be something like this: So how can I maintain fine details (like the cog tips in the image above) while applying smoothing methods to printed parts?
I need to do some post processing of my 3D-printed models that includes adding some holes. For each of PLA, ABS, PETG and other 3D-printing materials: In what ways is drilling a hole in a model made... that they will split on when drilled into, and if so, what are ways to avoid such splitting? Are higher speeds better, or lower speeds, or should I only use a finger-twirled bit holder? Are some 3D-printing materials easier to drill than others? What other methods also work for creating a hole in the different types of plastics?
I am an absolute beginner when it comes to 3d printing. I want to get into the hobby by designing aero automotive parts such as fender flares, custom gauge and switch pods, lips etc. I've never taken a CAD course but I would say I'm proficient enough with computers as I work as a developer. My uncle is an architect and it seems like autocad might be something good to go with. What are some other good alternatives that allow accurate modeling down to millimeters and possibly breaking larger objects into smaller 3d printable pieces to mash together?
I have a Prusa i3 that I am mostly happy with. However, I am seeing these strange artifacts when the extruder moves along one axis in one direction - in particular from the back of the printer.... The pieces were printed side by side, and both of them show this on the left hand side, while the right is okay. I am thinking maybe the extruder tip is slanted (not perpendicular to the bed), which causes some sort of scraping while extruding? What do you think?
is mechanically sound. The nuts move freely up and down the 5mm threaded rod. There are no points along the entire length of the rod that the nuts don't move very freely. The stainless steel rods are well aligned and the entire Z/X-Axis carriage moves very freely along the vertical rails. The bearings appear to be fine. I then wanted to narrow it down to being the firmware, and not electrical... 350mV. Even if I adjust the potentiometer to 550mV, I still get the same issue. The jumpers underneath seem to be snugly in place, and all the pins on the A4988 appear to be fine as well. The one thing I
My company has an old Dimension SST printer that is out of commission due to a few broken pieces. I have contacted the Stratsys folk and they won't do anything until we purchase a multi-thousand dollar service policy. I also have a Makerbot that I can use to create spare parts however, can't find pictures of the original configuration. The broken pieces are the Toggle Bar and Z Foam Sensor... parts? Does anyone have detailed pictures (360 view) of the print head they are willing to share so I can recreate the parts/attachments. Thank you so much for any help!
into the face of a plastic part and then thermally fuse the two layers together using heat transfer method? Most of the surfaces I work with would be flat, but there are some parts that are slightly curved and it would be totally amazing if I could somehow apply graphics to those areas as well. Thanks for any hints ...I'm trying to find a way of applying graphics to my ABS printed parts. I need a robust method which can produce a decent amount of detail with true color and legible fine text . I also was hoping
What are the methods to auto eject parts (into a collection area/box/basket) in order for the 3D printer to continue printing? For some reason this feature isn't common (yet?). Is there a hidden reason why? Will using the print head to ram the part off the build plate into a basket nearby cause the print head to misalign (if using belts). I am planning to use a Cartesian XY-Head type (like CoreXY) printer, where the build plate moves along the Z axis and XY axes are on the ceiling of the printer using belts to move the print head.