For a science project, I'm 3D-printing some custom pipes and tubes to regulate the flow of gas (a combination of ethyl alcohol and water vapor) through an apparatus. They need to be pretty small, as the entire experiment is designed on a small scale. I'd also like the use a little filament as possible.
How thin can I make the walls of these pipes and tubes before either they collapse or gas leaks out? I know that's possibly an engineering issue, but I'd also need to take resolution into consideration. Ideally, the pipes would be about two centimeters in diameter, possibly a little larger or a little smaller in some parts. I'd most likely use ABS, but PLA is my backup in case there's some unforeseen reaction between the gas and the pipes.
The printer I'm using is an FDM printer, a version of the MakerBot Replicator.
The thinnest wall your printer can print is determined by its nozzle size, and will be a little thicker than that nozzle size.
A great challenge when dealing with thin, hollow cylinders is that the cross-section has very little surface area and it can delaminate easily, especially if the tube is long.
You could try printing the tube with a very thick extrusion with, and using only a single perimeter. That would give better gas-tightness and layer adhesion than two, thinner perimeters, but it may turn out too fragile for your application. In that case, you'll need to print additional perimeters. Sticking to thicker extrusion widths would still be beneficial.
At a two centimeter diameter I'd say the single perimeter has a decent chance of working if you handle them gingerly.
The thinnest possible will be a single outline, so the best you can possibly do is slightly larger than your nozzle size.
The biggest issues I see in terms of making a thin airtight tubes are:
When printing thin cylinders vertically,
I'm new to the 3D printing world, but I've been doing some research over the past couple weeks. I need a printer that is decent enough to make prototypes using simple 3D software (I use Blender for 3D models, but won't mind suggestions there also). The prototypes are for cases to hold small electronic components and will be generally around 2*4*4 inches. They will meet to be sturdy enough... it together easily. I've generally heard mixed reviews about different printer sets and I don't have the budget to get one of the higher end models. Found this little number on Amazon : [REPRAPGURU
programmable ROM like what must be on the Arduino board storing the firmware degrades a little, each time you write to it. Right now I'm trying to calibrate away another print problem, and I think I need to modify the firmware yet again, which I've already done several times. So I'm starting to worry about how many times I can do that. Well, once I remembered the acronym "EEPROM", and after a little...? Wouldn't it be a single blip of data? And if so how many cycles would the average Marlin file consume? I also found this but I'd be very surprised if I've uploaded to it more than 2000 times
For my Frankenstein's printer I am at a loss with the hotend mount. I cannot drill holes of 16 (upper diameter) and 12 mm (clamping diameter, 6mm high) which i would need to mount the E3D V6 clone I... be able to put any screws through it along the flat axis. also I would have to glue the layer with a 16mm hole on top. Not to say that I don't own a drillbit of 16mm diameter... Are there some completely... the hotend directly to the DVD drive but a) there is almost no space for that, and b) I'm pretty sure I will burn the DVD drive's motor somewhere along the way, so I don't want to put too much work
I've just tried to make some small labels with embossed lettering. Base is 1.5 mm, with letters and a perimeter protruding by another 1 mm. After printing, I realised that Cura is not giving me a top... can appreciate that maybe this is a detail to the slicing which is model dependant). Layers are 0.2 mm, top and bottom set to 4 layers. I had walls set to 1.6 mm, (4 layers) and the wall features here are 1 mm (i.e. 2.5x the nozzle). The features are solid so far as I know, not drawn as a hollow. I found a relevant bug for Cura: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1303 (and I also
design the whole part and then I slice it with planes or lines. In these cases I need to push/pull afterwards each contact surface manually by the same amount (0.2-0.5 mm) and that is a time consuming task. Another option is to use a cutter to remove the outer surface layer (basically I remove the rigged surface, making it smooth again) but it's not safe and even more time consuming. How can I quickly generate said controlled gaps on the contact surfaces between two objects, but not on the rest of the object? to make it everywhere I could use shells, I guess, but I don't need
with either jumbled or nonexistent textures when it's uploaded to an online service. I'm guessing I'm exporting the file wrong for 3D printing, or possibly that I need to do some post-export editing...I have captured several models using 123D Catch and Autodesk ReCap 360. I do all my "clean up" work in MeshMixer to prepare the models for printing, and while exporting to STL works great for printing on my home FDM printer I haven't been able to get color files exported. I would like to export scanned models from MeshMixer and upload them to an online printing service (i.e. Shapeways
was getting correct temperature readings before that. Also, I have a second extruder thermistor port that is unused. If I did damage my board, could I edit pins.h and configuration.h to use this port...I just got my HICTOP Prusa i3 Aluminium frame printer and finished putting it together. After setting it to preheat, I realized the bed was not level - I adjusted it and accidentally caused the head... is that a thin layer came off the printbed - After testing with a multimeter, I realized that the metal under this layer is connected to power. As both the bed and hotend were heating, I believe I may
Can I use a metal filament such as Copper, Zinc Alloy, Silver filaments on M3D Micro? The Pro hasn't come out yet but I assume it would if the Micro can since the Pro is suppose to be the improvement edition. An example of a metal filament that I found is this Silver PLA 1.75mm Filament. Here's one for Cooper PLA 1.75mm Filament. I would like to make small sculptures or bracelet beads/charms, and whatever else I could think of making using metal. And, I'm asking because I'm new to 3d printing, I want to learn how to work with a 3d printer and M3D is very affordable for me. So I'm making
A comment to my question How much insulation do I really need? has made me paranoid about using cork as a heatbed insulator: Why worry -- other than the fact that it's flammable. All that's needed to start a fire is having the thermistor fail or come loose. I'd use a flameproof material if you're going to insulate. The flash point (ignition temperature) of cork is, apparently, 300 - 320°C1, which is not, as far as I can tell, a temperature that the heatbed reaches, so, in theory, cork should be safe to use as an insulator. In fact temperatures of around 300C are used