Are self intersecting meshes dirty from a 3D printing perspective?

Gunslinger
  • Are self intersecting meshes dirty from a 3D printing perspective? Gunslinger

    I have never much cared about self intersecting meshes when slicing with Cura. Geometry like the one below are often practical. I for instance add lots of rivets that self intersect with the base geometry:

    self intersecting mesh

    Now I have switched printer, and am using Simplify3D instead. All of a sudden, I get lots of problems with these models. The intersection of the objects become hollow. Simplify3D has a setting to join the outer solid shell but it also fills holes (such as the center hole of a gear).

    I make models to sell so this is a big deal for me.

    EDIT: Also, they printed perfectly fine in formlabs "slicer".

  • Self intersecting meshes are considered dirty, yes. The reason you haven't had trouble before is probably that the software you were using was cleaning your mesh for you, behind the scenes. Generally speaking, these meshes can be cleaned without too much trouble by software like netfabb (https://www.netfabb.com/) which has a nice free version that I use for basic cleaning of some of my meshes. A quick google on "netfabb free fix mesh" should turn up a tutorial or two.

    If you're interested in learning more about an operation you can use to make this a single unified mesh, it's called a Boolean Union, and the blender project has a nice (open source, I think?) implementation of such: (https://www.blender.org/manual/modeling/modifiers/generate/booleans.html)

  • You can download MeshLab from https://sourceforge.net/projects/meshlab/ and use it to head stls.

    This video has healing instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLGIRAgLz4w

Tags
3d-models 3d-design cura simplify3d
Related questions and answers
  • The $200 Monoprice Select is inexpensive but also cheap, so experiences I've seen appear to involve lots of repairs. In spite of that, I've bought one, as I'm able to fix things (sometimes) and the first few prints have been pretty good quality. ( I hear this unit is also sold as a Wanhao I3 ) First repair was that the control knob only worked in one direction (fix: bad encoder-PCB connector... to unscrew it, to check for a feed blockage, it just let go, and I see no part that could have held it in place. (See pic) I'm guessing that it was just epoxy-glued to the heatsink. Sounds kludgy

  • ) - there's just one small hole at the base of each structure. (I stopped the print a few layers after the problem layers do ignore the tops.) Going to 99% (Simplify3D's max) would probably get rid of those last holes but I have to think that maxing out S3D's outline overlap setting to just barely make the print work means I haven't found or addressed the true root cause... ...I recently changed the printhead on my DeltaMaker from stock to an E3D Lite6, and am struggling to get back to my original quality, reliability, and repeatability. I thought I had gotten the recipe

  • Where can I go to upgrade this printer? It's a hictop prusa i3 3d printer. Where do you buy heated beds suitable for ABS and PLA? Also, what kind of extruder do you guys think I should buy? This is were I bought it from. http://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Desktop-Accuracy-Self-Assembly-Tridimensional/dp/B00N7I1ZVU

  • of the layers so I think it must have something to do with slicing settings, but I'm at a loss for what I need to change to fix it. See below for images of the issue. On the orange piece near the right hand side you can see light shining through the gap. The black cube has it at the top, though it's not deep enough to let light through like with the orange one. There is also an image of the layer preview which shows the same gap. I have a Rostock Max v2 (stock hot end). I am using Matter control using mostly stock settings, I've tweaked around layer height, speed, and temp but I don't think those

  • PLA, so maybe it was a PLA quality problem. But the same thing happened at the same layer when I tried it again. And again. And again. As soon as I cancel the print I can have it extrude 5cm...I'm looking for any idea of what could cause this problem. I'm printing (1.75mm PLA @ 220C) a 14cm x 14cm box, sliced with Simplify3D. Relevant settings are 3 bottom layers, 3 top layers, 3 outline...) also prints beautifully (see left side of photo below). But the moment it starts printing the next layer (layer 11, the top layer of the bottom of the box), which should be solid fill exactly like

  • I recently upgraded to a E3D full hotend and I started to have problems with slowly printed parts. After I print first object and start next one, then the first layer has serious issue. The first... with marlin firmware. I use Slic3r and Pronterface SW. I didn't find answer in following troubleshooting guides: Simplify3D - Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide RepRap - Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide all3dp.com - 16 Common 3D Printing Problems (And Solutions) Do you have an idea what can cause this issue? Update I did a new print, where I just

  • I am building what I dub Frankenstein's printer from various components I could find in the electronics dumpster to print the proteins for a P3 Steel (toolson edition). I want to elevate a scanner bed with an attached DVD drive motor for X-Y movements of the hotend. I plan to connect this by threaded rods to a base that also hosts the heated bed on a stury z-axis mechanism. To make.... Additionally each side is planned to have one diagonal connected by a rod. We're talking about a height of about 30cm and M8 rods. Will this introduce lots of vibrations and is it possible to avoid easily

  • My company has an old Dimension SST printer that is out of commission due to a few broken pieces. I have contacted the Stratsys folk and they won't do anything until we purchase a multi-thousand dollar service policy. I also have a Makerbot that I can use to create spare parts however, can't find pictures of the original configuration. The broken pieces are the Toggle Bar and Z Foam Sensor... parts? Does anyone have detailed pictures (360 view) of the print head they are willing to share so I can recreate the parts/attachments. Thank you so much for any help!

  • I have a monoprice printer, works great. .4mm nozzle. I bought a number of PLA solid colors and they all print reliably. I also bought 2 rolls of PLA translucent colors, and I have lots of trouble printing with them. What I eventually noticed was that when the translucent filaments extrude, they come out in a noticeably thinner stream. Not sure why, I've tried increasing the hot end temperature and printing slower, but nothing seems to help. The effect seems to be that not enough filament comes out from the nozzle for the speed the head is printing at. I use cura for the slicer, and I've

Data information