This is my problem:
I'm assembling a 3D printer with the RAMPS 1.4 board and Arduino Mega. I have assembled the structure and the electronics (set drivers, placed the jumpers, connected stepper motors...) and have uploaded Marlin firmware (configuring: thermistor, endstops...) on the Arduino Mega.
I've tried to connect, via USB, to the computer and using the Repetier software I have commanded the printer which did do some movement. The printer worked perfectly. After a few tests, however, I've noticed that the Arduino was restarting several times and at one point I saw a component on the Arduino board burning. Searching the internet I saw that the burned component was the voltage regulator.
I heard also about unplugging the screen because it consumes a lot of current, that passes through the voltage regulator, thereby heating it up. I then proceeded to buy another Arduino Mega. I also checked the voltage of my 12V 360W power supply and it is correct. I always powered the Arduino with USB and RAMPS 1.4 was connected to the power supply from the two terminals.
When the new Arduino arrived, I connected the whole (without connecting the screen) and tried. The printer worked very well until it started giving the same problem as the first Arduino board. Someone can tell me if I have done something wrong, or is it the RAMPS board that does not work properly?
I read that the endstops can cause this problem. I have these endstops: 1 PZ di Alta Qualità Finecorsa Meccanico Per rampe Reprap 1.4 stampante 3D Con imballaggio indipendente kit fai da te and I connected the black wire to GND, red wire to 5V and the green wire to SIGNAL.
with the same model board with no apparent fix for the commonly faulty voltage regulator. I can't afford the now $500 replacement board, so my option is to replace the faulty component and hope no further... the green wire does/goes (mine is blue on my machine). The image looks like he just soldered it onto the heat sink pad. I tried to test it by plugging in the power and the RGB LED strip. The stepper motor... (the reason for this question). The results of this board are the same as the old one. I actually get power on the main board, but the LCD screen just shows two solid lines. I've taken pictures of what I've
I have a RAMPS 1.4 and an Arduino Mega 2560. The problem is with 100k NTC thermistor. I've tested it with a multimeter, it results in ~122kΩ. I am using Marlin 1.0.2 (latest stable). I am using an MK8 extruder and do not receive temperature readings from the thermo-sensor - no matter how I connect it. However, on APrinter firmware it works flawlessly. In configuration.h, I have tried most...:-inf /nan T:25.2076 /nan I have not connected bed thermistor yet. pins.h #define TEMP_0_PIN 1 // Extruder / Analog pin numbering #define TEMP_BED_PIN 0 // Bed / Analog pin
I'm still looking at wires for my Prusa i3, to go between the power supply and RAMPS 1.4, and the power supply and the MK2a Heatbed. I also recently found a 400 ft. Wire Storehouse that I bought from Harbor Freight which has wire sizes in it from AWG 10 through AWG 22 (and additionally speaker wire, Zip Cord and Bell). I also bought some reading material, I picked up Wiring Simplified 44th... being at 60 C. As far as I can tell if I use the AWG 10 (TW?) to connect everything it won't matter, but I just thought I'd check here to be sure first since my power supply is rated at 30 AMPs
The Sainsmart Endstops I picked up are different from the ones described in the RepRap Prusa i3 Rework electronics assembly wiki; they have 4 female plugs that go into the RAMPS 1.4 board instead of 3: Since these endstops are different, how do I hook them up, and what do the markings on them mean?
Due to a not-given compatibility with Makerbot mechanical endstop wiring (and carelessness on my side) I ended up burning the voltage regulator on my Arduino Mega 2560. Now, powering the Arduino separately from a USB power supply, I can operate the electronics, however, I am still unable to receive any signal from the endstops and I don't want to hook up my replacement Arduino until I see that my wiring is correct. Could I have burnt anything else on either the Arduino (pullup resistors were firmware disabled) or the RAMPS 1.4 which makes it impossible to receive a singal from the endstops?
Has anybody taken apart a da Vinci Jr. 3D printer nozzle? My first time trying to clean the nozzle after it jammed, I broke off the filament immediately before it gets heated, inside the nozzle... and pulled it out after heating. I have a long length of wire that is similar to the tiny cleaning wire that comes with the kit. Is it safe to heat up the nozzle and push the wire all the way through? I tried pushing from the other direction with the large cleaning tool (as shown in video). I also tried heating the tip of the filament and pushing it to the jammed filament inside the nozzle
You may want to use this code to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares. I'm planning on: Flashing the test firmware onto the Arduino Mega 2560, then unplugging it from the USB. Connecting RAMPS 1.4 Connecting all 3 jumpers under the X-Axis (leaving the other jumpers disconnected). Connecting a stepper driver to the X-Axis on the board. Turning the trimpot down all the way, and then back up 1/4th of the way. Plugging in 1 NEMA 17 motor to the X-Axis. Connecting 5A DC input into RAMPS 1.4 (not plugged in). Finally plugging it in and seeing
Bed Hot Bed for RepRap 3D Printer 12V + Wiring + NTC 3950 Thermistor - Upgrade you Prusa i3 for LARGE Printsize, or this cheaper MK3, Anycubic Dual Power MK3 Heatbed 300*200*3mm Aluminum Heat Bed 12V/24V Perfect for Prusa i3 3D Printer. Note: this is not a shopping question, I am merely providing a background to my questions. While the RepRap wiki is full of information, the information can... not sure if this should be a separate question) I would have also asked whether aluminium PCB heatbeds are worth the additional cost, over standard PCB heatbeds, but for the slightly less common
I'm looking to make 20-30 IoT devices, with the pi zero. The price point is perfect, the only downside is that it doesn't have an Ethernet jack and the power adapter is not included. I found a mod... and connected to the internet with just an Ethernet cable. With 3D printing or Milling is it possible to make something that snap fits the components together and mitigate a lot of soldering? Is it possible to print or mill something that will do the 48 to 5 volt conversion? Components: Two male micro USB heads 48 to 5 volt converter Ethernet adapter board Pi zero