When I've printed an object I've had to choose between high resolution and quick prints. What techniques or technologies can I use or deploy to speed up my high resolution prints?
You could experiment with slicing. For example, you might not need high resolution all over the object, but you can speed up some straight parts by using greater layer high there. See a part of Slic3r manual about such thing.
It is also possible to print thicker infill every Nth layer, see Infill optimization in Slic3r.
Other slicers might have those features as well.
I noticed 3Dsystems has Multi Jet 3D printing where wax is used provide support and give users with high resolution 3D printed objects. I was wondering if there were cheaper and smaller Multi Jet 3D printing? Can Form 1+ from FormLabs be considered to do the same job with resin?
I run a high school 3D printer lab and we have several 5th generation MakerBot printers. On one of them I have considerable trouble with "thin" prints and filament slip warnings. So far I've tried changing extruders and using different filament rolls with no luck. But, if I move the job and the extruder to a different printer it works. I'd appreciate suggestions for how to sort this out. I would have expected the slipping problems to follow the extruder.
With an ABS or PLA extrusion 3D printer, are there any potentially negative quality differences that could occur if I try to print at a higher resolution? I am not concerned about print time as the equipment is not under high demand. I am, however, worried the device may be more prone to fracture, likely to have defects, or have other issues I cannot currently imagine.
I don't know whether this belongs here (where most of the questions appear to be about hardware) or on Math or on Blender (though I've never used Blender). All of the designs that I've published so far consist of grids of bent ‘rods’, and in most of them the spacing of vertices depends on the rod's local curvature; that's easy enough. But I think some of these figures would look better as continuous surfaces, and it's not obvious to me how to arrange the vertices efficiently — that is, to triangulate the surface just finely enough that it's accurate to within the printer's resolution. So
I'm trying to squeeze a little better quality out of my time lapses generated by OctoPrint. I'm using the Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2 with a Pi 3. I've already edited the Octopi config to get 720p resolution, but the encoding during time lapse rendering is horrific. Blocky as hell. Right now the encoding is set up at 5000k. What am I doing wrong here?
I know that melted polymers are used for DLP (digital light processing) printing, by displaying the model onto the liquid material, which is the melted polymer. But, can I use materials like steel, carbon fiber, etc? If yes, then what precautions and arrangement should I make to my apparatus for coping with their high melting point?
I'm considering buying this package, the Kossel, as my first 3D printer. It's not the cheapest model, but apparently a high resolution and stable, which is what I'm after. The question is, what is the life expectancy of this printer, given the component list? Assuming the printer is constructed properly and properly taken care of, but used once or twice a week for several hours. Is it possible to make an estimate of how many years this particular printer could be used before it starts showing signs of wear? Parts list: 1x Complete set of platics for Kossel Mini (PLA) 1x Kossel mini
I've noticed that some of my prints (mostly square-ish objects) are coming out with gaps between the outside shells and the inner parts. This gap is visible even in the 2D sliced preview of the layers so I think it must have something to do with slicing settings, but I'm at a loss for what I need to change to fix it. See below for images of the issue. On the orange piece near the right hand side... which shows the same gap. I have a Rostock Max v2 (stock hot end). I am using Matter control using mostly stock settings, I've tweaked around layer height, speed, and temp but I don't think those
I have an M3D Micro 3D printer that printed fine for a couple of weeks and then was plagued with issues afterward. I've done the fixes from the forum to get proper heating and cooling of the nozzle. (I've added aluminum foil around the nozzle to make sure the hotend is fit snug against the nozzle and I've added an external fan, powered externally, to compensate for heat creep.) This works very well for short prints and it usually finishes successfully. When I do a longer print it always stops midway and usually at the same exact point. I tried printing at 200°C with black PLA