Ironing out all my worries before buying my first 3D printer.
I'm looking at getting the da Vinci miniMaker 3D printer as my first 3D printer, but it doesn't come with a heated bed.
On my previous question about heating beds effect on a print, I was told that I need to use a raft to compensate for the absence of a heated bed. What I want to know is, does the software that comes with the printer allow the creation of rafts whilst/prior to printing? Or will it create rafts if need be?
Ok. After watching some YouTube Videos, I would take it that the abovementioned software does include the option to create rafts when printing a model.
. I am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated Bed Hot Bed for RepRap 3D Printer 12V + Wiring + NTC 3950 Thermistor - Upgrade you Prusa i3 for LARGE Printsize, or this cheaper MK3, Anycubic Dual Power MK3 Heatbed 300*200*3mm Aluminum Heat Bed 12V/24V Perfect for Prusa i3 3D Printer. Note: this is not a shopping question, I am merely providing a background to my questions. While the RepRap wiki is full of information, the information can
I'm looking at getting this printer, the da Vinci 1.0w 3D Printer, very soon as my first printer. Since this is an enclosed printer, from what I can tell from the pictures, and given that it is a PLA Printer (I'm assuming that is the filament it prints with), is a heated bed necessary? Especially since this printer doesn't have one? Or should I look at a ABS printer instead? I plan on printing 1:1 scale props.
I am new to 3d printing and had bought my first 3d printer a couple of months ago. I have it all put together and the software uploaded to the Arduino. However, I need some help with configuration and calibration of the printer. I understand that there is a configuration file that can be changed and uploaded again the create those changes. I also have worked with Arduino before so I know the IDE... guys are my last hope. If you need any more information to help me, let me know and i'll try getting it to you asap. (I also have read the documentation on Repetier and the installation
I'm popping my cherry here, so to speak. Refer to my Hackaday project for system details & pictures: Sciclone 3D Printer Conversion Repurposing a lab-grade liquid handling system to a 3D printer...-dollar lab machine into a 3D printer with very high performance capabilities and 14 cubic feet of production volume. Although FDM is certainly a realistic "no-brainer" capability for this setup, I.... Basically, I think I'm looking for a software-defined method of coordinating the X & Y movement of the projector's output to the printing surface (presumable a tray of photo-sensitive SLA resin
One of the local libraries has a new small Makerbot 3D printer. I have been submitting Sketchup files converted to STL files for printing. The tech guy who runs the printer for patrons is having... to taking suggestions. He wants to get the printer running smoothly for patrons. I submitted a file with my own base with supports made in Sketchup. But, the tech guy said he needs to set the printer to create it's own base and supports. Additional info: When I printed it by letting Makerbot create the base and supports, it came out to be 1 3/4" as shown here: https://flic.kr/p/EashnD Printer
I'm trying to line up the physical print bed of my printer (Printrbot Simple Metal) to the virtual print area of the slicer (Cura). So far, they've never been properly aligned. It was never that big a problem because, worst case scenario, my print would simply not be dead-center on the bed. But I've decided to try and fix it. Here are pictures of a test model in Cura, and the resulting physical... would be set by the Marlin firmware (EEPROM?). But I also need to be able to do a little offset tweaking on the software side for when I need to replace the BuildTak mat. Edit: I tried M206 (home
energy source, such as a laser or electron beam, across a bed of metal powder, fusing the powder particles together in a pre-determined pattern to create the final 3D structure. While this method does allow for incredibly strong metal 3D structures to be produced, it has its drawbacks, mainly: it is prohibitively expensive and time consuming; it does not allow for certain types of architectures... to be printed with this technique? Source: A closer look at the 12 biggest 3D printing tech innovations of the first half of 2016.
like the option to get above 100°C bed temp. Am I on the right track? Suggestions? I'm still pretty new to the device and 3D printing in general, so I may have overlooked something obvious. Update...I have a Monoprice Maker Select, which is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator I3 V2 (Prusa clone). I've found that the heated bed temperature values on the LCD are incorrect. The heater works... could build a custom version of the firmware to install on my printer, and in doing so I could potentially specify a better conversion table. This gives me pause for several reasons: I haven't found
I am planning on building a large enclosed (Cartesian XY-Head) 3d printer. I want to keep the inital build time minimal and it is very likely I would need to build the ~50x50cm heatbed from scratch, because it doesn't exist in ebay. The enclosure itself is not separately heated, but depends on waste heat from the printing process. The enclosure will eventually be vented outdoors with a 12V CPU vent via ducting (air flow unknown). Do I even need a heated print bed, when I am planning to only print PLA?