Why worry -- other than the fact that it's flammable. All that's needed to start a fire is having the thermistor fail or come loose. I'd use a flameproof material if you're going to insulate.
The flash point (ignition temperature) of cork is, apparently, 300 - 320°C1, which is not, as far as I can tell, a temperature that the heatbed reaches, so, in theory, cork should be safe to use as an insulator. In fact temperatures of around 300C are used in the manufacturing process of some cork products2:
For insulation applications, agglomerates of granules of cork, known as black agglomerates, are employed. They are manufactured in a closed autoclave at high temperature (approximately 300uC) and pressure (around 40 kPa) without the use of adhesive
In addtion, according to Why should we use cork?
Does cork burn?
Cork is a slow combustion material. That is to say, yes it burns but very slowly and it doesn't produce flame so it doesn't spread. Also, when burning, the smoke that it releases is not toxic.
However, I am not sure if all cork is equal, or whether the thickness of the cork can affect the safety. To give a definite figure, I was thinking of using 2 mm - 5 mm thick cork sheeting.
Has anyone experienced, or know of, any burning (or scorching) of cork, when used as a backing insulator to a heatbed, in particular, an aluminium PCB MK3 heatbed?
The real fire risks with 3d printers are electrical in nature. Lets say your wires come undone and happen to come next to the other lead. If it archs and happened to be in just the right position. Pretty unlikely. Once I did a bad solder job and when I was working on my printer. The wires literally burst into flame in my lap. No damage done (other than needing a new board). That said we often see people who have their boards catch fire in the flashforge owner groups. Weak solder joints, and over all bad quality.
Do you really have something to worry about with Cork? No. A series of unfortunate events would have to happen, and more likely your board will cause a fire. That said I would look into adding a layer of aluminum and reflect some of that heat back up.
If you are that worried I would just remove the sheet. Unless you are having issues calibrating you heated build plate / PIDs there is no reason to use insulation. I only use it on printers that have a hard time hitting ABS temps of 100c. Even then I only use tin foil and try to trap the air underneath.
Just a side note. If you are having heated build plate issues maybe what you really need is a heat chamber.
. I am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated...TL;DR Do aluminium PCB heatbeds suffer from hotspots as much as standard PCB heatbeds, or is the presence of hot spots smoothed over by the fact that the PCB "substrate" is aluminium, and so its... not sure if this should be a separate question) I would have also asked whether aluminium PCB heatbeds are worth the additional cost, over standard PCB heatbeds, but for the slightly less common
of deformation of the MDF due to humidity/temperature? Notes 1 I found this question after having written up my question, so I admit that there is a risk of duplicity of the answers. However, I am... of the steel plate. Therefore I would like to substitute the steel plate for another material. I had considered aluminium, as recommended by the RepRap wiki - P3Steel/Frame Versions/ Version 4.0 : We recomended use aluminum beds for y axis. However, it was suggested, by a vendor, that I use laser cut 6 mm thick MDF, principally for reasons of economics and availablity, over aluminium. I
from Harbor Freight which has wire sizes in it from AWG 10 through AWG 22 (and additionally speaker wire, Zip Cord and Bell). I also bought some reading material, I picked up Wiring Simplified 44th... based on the specification in the table. Given that the thing only cost $30 for 400 Ft. of wire, it would lead me to believe that the cheapest grade of insulation was used; as I understand it, the TW... with it as there is probably lead in the insulation as well as the wire. The largest copper wire I have found in the table that I have (AWG 10) says that it is rated at 30 AMP regardless of which type of insulation it has
and the fan doesn't move. I tested the current on another 12V fan laying around and that fan runs just fine. So, it seems that the fan has gone bad...somehow. I am still quite confused on how... settings, ensuring that fan operation is selected (starting at 0.6 mm) and that it is being told to run at 100%. I have also sent 'M106 S255' from Proterface UI (this, from what I have researched, should...SOLVED: I replaced the leads coming from the fan motor and it is working just fine. Thanks for the input. If anyone else has this model, I would suggest printing and installing a wire clip in order
to create it's own base and supports. Additional info: When I printed it by letting Makerbot create the base and supports, it came out to be 1 3/4" as shown here: https://flic.kr/p/EashnD Printer..., it has to be 2 inches across. https://flic.kr/p/EtdM6s Here is the printer: https://flic.kr/p/E5F1M6 I used a website to convert the DAE file exported from Sketchup to an STL file... trouble getting a project of mine to come out to be the right size. I need this item go be 2 inches wide. The tech guy sizes the item on the screen to 2 inches. I watched him do it. But, the item
would be set by the Marlin firmware (EEPROM?). But I also need to be able to do a little offset tweaking on the software side for when I need to replace the BuildTak mat. Edit: I tried M206 (home offset) commands, but the result is definitely not what we want. I cancelled these early. The upper print has M206 Y-15, the lower print has M206 Y15. What seems to happen is that the coordinate... print: What's the proper way to align the two? It seems I just got lucky with the x-axis here (though note that the BuildTak surface is a bit off center). But obviously the y-axis needs fixing
problems. But last night they had serious problems: I haven't seen a problem like that before. Extrusion rate seems basically perfect - why does it look like it just stopped extruding around the perimeters? I'm using PLA filament and Simplify3D 3.1.0 slicing. Settings: 0.35 mm nozzle, 0.40 mm extrusion width, 1.05 extrusion multiplier 0.15 mm layer height, 3 top, 3 bottom layers, 2 perimeter... 220°C) Print speed is 2700 mm/min (45 mm/s) Has anyone seen this issue before? UPDATE: Increasing outline overlap from 60% to 90% almost fixes the problem (at least visually if not structurally
This is related to Cons to UV printing and focused on Ryan Carlyle's answer, mentioning: "...resin-curing SLA/DLP printers are industrial or commercial tools that are really not suitable for home desktop use." So, my general question is what are the pros to using a DLP printer in an manufacturing environment? My experience with 3D printing in manufacturing has shown me the necessity of understanding material strengths as well as how to utilize the 3D printing technology (FDM mostly) to produce a structurally strong part. Most of what I've made has been fixtures with small to moderate
up, so I can use this part and retain some resilience against excess extrusion pressure. I was assuming I had a slightly sub-standard throat part (in a pack of 6). However, I now wonder if the problem was caused by too high a temperature (this is ABS filament) and maybe the teflon will be too soft to function as designed, so if I go back to PLA filament, maybe it is more likely to work without...I've tried using a throat with a PTFE tube, but encountered the problem described in this question. It seems only a small amount of excess pressure in the extruder is enough to force out the inner