I have been looking at cork sheet insulation for my 200 mm x 300 mm aluminium PCB heatbed, by I am not entirely sure how thick it should be. There seems to be a trade off between losing a few millimeters of print height, and providing adequate installation.
I have seen 10 mm thick table mats, and then 5/3/2 mm thick cork insulation tiles. On some forums people say they use two 2 mm sheets beneath the aluminium heater and then another 1.5 mm aluminium plate under those, to hold it altogether (source: Re: Is a cork board necessary under the heated bed?).
Hopefully this does not come across as a how-long-is-a-piece-of-string type question. I am just trying to get the right amount in the first place whilst spending as little as possible, and keeping the mass/volume and height down. If someone else has already gone through the empirical adjustments themselves, then it might save me the time and expense of having to test various configurations.
Since 50% of the bed is uninsulated, you're definately into diminishing returns as soon as you start adding any insulation.
With that area, I think you are looking at 1.2W per kelvin for a 2mm thickness.
I'm guessing a bit with these powers, but roughly, maybe from 100 W un-insulated, 75 with 2mm, 60W with 4mm. You can get a reasonably accurate measure of the power by looking at the duty cycle of the heating element.
Actually, its not clear if your primary goal is to reduce energy/maintain a very high temperature, or speed the initial heating. You can place a temporary sheet of cork on top of the bed (preferably extending over the edges to prevent convection) and this will significantly improve heat-up times.
recomended use aluminum beds for y axis. However, it was suggested, by a vendor, that I use laser cut 6 mm thick MDF, principally for reasons of economics and availablity, over aluminium. I have subsequently found a supplier of 3 mm thick aluminium 200 mm x 300 mm Y axis plates, so availability is no longer an issue, and the slightly higher cost is not really an issue for me. However..., and a magnitude less than that of steel. I have found the densities of aluminium and steel: Aluminium 2.7x103 kg/m3 (167 lb/ft3) Steel 7.82x103 kg/m3 (488 lb/ft3) [Source: Densities
problems. But last night they had serious problems: I haven't seen a problem like that before. Extrusion rate seems basically perfect - why does it look like it just stopped extruding around the perimeters? I'm using PLA filament and Simplify3D 3.1.0 slicing. Settings: 0.35 mm nozzle, 0.40 mm extrusion width, 1.05 extrusion multiplier 0.15 mm layer height, 3 top, 3 bottom layers, 2 perimeter... of those last holes but I have to think that maxing out S3D's outline overlap setting to just barely make the print work means I haven't found or addressed the true root cause...
not sure if this should be a separate question) I would have also asked whether aluminium PCB heatbeds are worth the additional cost, over standard PCB heatbeds, but for the slightly less common dimensions of 200 mm x 300 mm, the costs, of an aluminium PCB heat bed, are roughly the same as standard PCB. Some thermal imaging pictures, comparing standard PCBs with aluminium PCBs, would be appreciated. I am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated
material. That is to say, yes it burns but very slowly and it doesn't produce flame so it doesn't spread. Also, when burning, the smoke that it releases is not toxic. However, I am not sure if all cork is equal, or whether the thickness of the cork can affect the safety. To give a definite figure, I was thinking of using 2 mm - 5 mm thick cork sheeting. Has anyone experienced, or know of, any...A comment to my question How much insulation do I really need? has made me paranoid about using cork as a heatbed insulator: Why worry -- other than the fact that it's flammable. All
I did calibrate the extruder to extrude exactly 50/100 mm and it is fine. I have replaced the old (prehistorical) extruder that was giving me the problem with a new one. The issue does not go away. It is severely under extruded. The nozzle is a 0.4 mm, if I extrude manually the extrusion is nice and clean but when printing its a mess. I have the following setting in Slic3: Layer height: 0,16 First layer height: 0,16 Filament diameter: 2,94 Extruder temperature: 184°C Extrusion multiplier: 1 Fill density: 15% In Marlin I have the following setting for the extruder: Steps per unit: 1450
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I am currently building a CNC machine and have a plan to use my spare MKS Base 1.2 board. I have successfully activated dual X but when ever I try to activate the dual Y option, it throws a compile error. BTW, I want to run 5 stepper motors without parallel wiring: 2 for X; 2 for Y, and; 1 for Z.
increased the flow setting for the first layer in the printer menu to 135 - that seems to do the trick, but I have to turn the setting back again on the second layer Now - is this the right way to fix this or am I just patching over an entirely different problem that I just failed to diagnose properly? If it is the right way, how can I tell Slic3r to either change the flow rate / extrusion multiplier...First off - I'm rather new to this and I might be on the wrong track altogether... I'm printing PLA using a simple DIY XYZ printer with a direct-driven extruder, 0.3 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer heights
on and stayed on, maintaining 60C. I thought of just unplugging the heatbed, but then I expect the print would never start, since it would try to heat up the bed and never succeed. So how does the decision about which temperature setting to use, really get made? I have the same question about extruder temps, speeds, accelerations, and other things, too -- whose settings are really in charge? ...I'm having trouble getting my MendelMax 2's heatbed not to heat up when I want to print without it. I don't get how multiple sources of control relate to each other (same with extrusion temperatures