I have purchased a P3Steel v.4 kit that, rather unfortunately, comes with a steel Y plate.
I understand that there may be interia, as well as stepper motor wear, issues related to the weight of the steel plate. Therefore I would like to substitute the steel plate for another material. I had considered aluminium, as recommended by the RepRap wiki - P3Steel/Frame Versions/ Version 4.0 :
We recomended use aluminum beds for y axis.
However, it was suggested, by a vendor, that I use laser cut 6 mm thick MDF, principally for reasons of economics and availablity, over aluminium.
I have subsequently found a supplier of 3 mm thick aluminium 200 mm x 300 mm Y axis plates, so availability is no longer an issue, and the slightly higher cost is not really an issue for me. However, I was wondering whether there would be significantly less interia if using an MDF Y axis plate, than with an aluminium plate.
I assume that the masses/densities of aluminium and MDF are comparable, and a magnitude less than that of steel.
I have found the densities of aluminium and steel:
Aluminium 2.7x103 kg/m3 (167 lb/ft3)
Steel 7.82x103 kg/m3 (488 lb/ft3)
The density of MDF is given as 700–720 kg/m3 (43.7-44.95 lb/ft3), which is a magnitude less than that of aluminium. [Source: Medium-density fibreboard]
There is the issue that MDF can eventually warp, whereas aluminium supposedly does not, although the OP of Wanhao duplicator i3 print bed support warped shows that warpage is possible with aluminium plate - see Is the weather a problem for MDF frames? and Would a steel, instead of an aluminium, plate be reasonable?1.
Considering the benefits of weight/inertia, stiffness and lack of deformation/warping:
1 I found this question after having written up my question, so I admit that there is a risk of duplicity of the answers. However, I am concentrating more of the comparison of aluminium and MDF in this post, rather than just steel versus aluminium. Also, my question deals with the Y axis heatbed support, rather than the heatbed itself.
not sure if this should be a separate question) I would have also asked whether aluminium PCB heatbeds are worth the additional cost, over standard PCB heatbeds, but for the slightly less common dimensions of 200 mm x 300 mm, the costs, of an aluminium PCB heat bed, are roughly the same as standard PCB. Some thermal imaging pictures, comparing standard PCBs with aluminium PCBs, would be appreciated. I am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated
A comment to my question How much insulation do I really need? has made me paranoid about using cork as a heatbed insulator: Why worry -- other than the fact that it's flammable. All..., which is not, as far as I can tell, a temperature that the heatbed reaches, so, in theory, cork should be safe to use as an insulator. In fact temperatures of around 300C are used... burning (or scorching) of cork, when used as a backing insulator to a heatbed, in particular, an aluminium PCB MK3 heatbed? 1 Source: What is the the ignition temperature of cork? | ChaCha 2 Source
I have been looking at cork sheet insulation for my 200 mm x 300 mm aluminium PCB heatbed, by I am not entirely sure how thick it should be. There seems to be a trade off between losing a few millimeters of print height, and providing adequate installation. I have seen 10 mm thick table mats, and then 5/3/2 mm thick cork insulation tiles. On some forums people say they use two 2 mm sheets beneath the aluminium heater and then another 1.5 mm aluminium plate under those, to hold it altogether (source: Re: Is a cork board necessary under the heated bed?). Hopefully this does not come across
I am currently building a CNC machine and have a plan to use my spare MKS Base 1.2 board. I have successfully activated dual X but when ever I try to activate the dual Y option, it throws a compile error. BTW, I want to run 5 stepper motors without parallel wiring: 2 for X; 2 for Y, and; 1 for Z.
tube. This makes me worry that with this particular part, I won't achieve a reliable configuration (and I'm experiencing some binding with the original plain steel throat, so a PTFE liner seems worth... up, so I can use this part and retain some resilience against excess extrusion pressure. I was assuming I had a slightly sub-standard throat part (in a pack of 6). However, I now wonder if the problem was caused by too high a temperature (this is ABS filament) and maybe the teflon will be too soft to function as designed, so if I go back to PLA filament, maybe it is more likely to work without
issue. I'm fairly new to this; I rather not brick my printer, and I haven't found any good guides to installing firmware on the device either. I'm not convinced this is the right option. Should I...I have a Monoprice Maker Select, which is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator I3 V2 (Prusa clone). I've found that the heated bed temperature values on the LCD are incorrect. The heater works..., I'm only reading 102-104°C. I've checked these values with the bare aluminum build plate, and I've allowed the temps to stabilize for at least 10 minutes to ensure that I have consistent readings
/stringing issue that I didn't think was but perhaps could be related). The screw hole mounts seem well-designed to me: No 90 degree transitions - I would think this would be the least of my... 220°C) Print speed is 2700 mm/min (45 mm/s) Has anyone seen this issue before? UPDATE: Increasing outline overlap from 60% to 90% almost fixes the problem (at least visually if not structurally) - there's just one small hole at the base of each structure. (I stopped the print a few layers after the problem layers do ignore the tops.) Going to 99% (Simplify3D's max) would probably get rid
, then unplugging it from the USB. Connecting RAMPS 1.4 Connecting all 3 jumpers under the X-Axis (leaving the other jumpers disconnected). Connecting a stepper driver to the X-Axis on the board. Turning the trimpot down all the way, and then back up 1/4th of the way. Plugging in 1 NEMA 17 motor to the X-Axis. Connecting 5A DC input into RAMPS 1.4 (not plugged in). Finally plugging it in and seeing if the motor moves for 5 seconds. Now my question is, if I'm going to do this to test out a single NEMA 17 motor, do I need to comment out the rest of the test code before loading the firmware?
I'm trying to line up the physical print bed of my printer (Printrbot Simple Metal) to the virtual print area of the slicer (Cura). So far, they've never been properly aligned. It was never that big a problem because, worst case scenario, my print would simply not be dead-center on the bed. But I've decided to try and fix it. Here are pictures of a test model in Cura, and the resulting physical print: What's the proper way to align the two? It seems I just got lucky with the x-axis here (though note that the BuildTak surface is a bit off center). But obviously the y-axis needs fixing