I'm looking to make 20-30 IoT devices, with the pi zero. The price point is perfect, the only downside is that it doesn't have an Ethernet jack and the power adapter is not included.
I found a mod that deals with both of these issues, however it would involve a lot of soldering. The mod takes a USB to Ethernet adapter and 48 to 5 volt converter and allows the device to be both powered and connected to the internet with just an Ethernet cable.
With 3D printing or Milling is it possible to make something that snap fits the components together and mitigate a lot of soldering? Is it possible to print or mill something that will do the 48 to 5 volt conversion?
with USB and RAMPS 1.4 was connected to the power supply from the two terminals. When the new Arduino arrived, I connected the whole (without connecting the screen) and tried. The printer worked... motors...) and have uploaded Marlin firmware (configuring: thermistor, endstops...) on the Arduino Mega. I've tried to connect, via USB, to the computer and using the Repetier software I have commanded... on the Arduino board burning. Searching the internet I saw that the burned component was the voltage regulator. I heard also about unplugging the screen because it consumes a lot of current, that passes
if the motor moves for 5 seconds. Now my question is, if I'm going to do this to test out a single NEMA 17 motor, do I need to comment out the rest of the test code before loading the firmware? ... You may want to use this code to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares. I'm planning on: Flashing the test firmware onto the Arduino Mega 2560, then unplugging it from the USB. Connecting RAMPS 1.4 Connecting all 3 jumpers under the X-Axis (leaving the other jumpers disconnected). Connecting a stepper driver to the X-Axis on the board. Turning
I have Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops, and I'm building a Prusa i3 Rework. I've recently gotten the x-axis to move, but it needs to stop when it gets to the end and it does not do that; I end up having to pull the plug. From what I understand, there are two ways to wire ends stops in general, but you have to change the settings in the firmware to make it work right. There are 3 connectors...: S Normally Closed (NC) Normally Open (NO) VCC Now it seems to me that if I take those connections and connect them as follows it should work...(ramps on the left, sainsmart end stop on the right
from space; they are not accurate by any stretch of the imagination. I'm just trying to paint as clear of a picture as possible. Troubleshooting: At first I checked to make sure everything.... For the record, maybe I'm missing something obvious, so please let me know. I measured the voltage on my A4988 stepper drivers on the RAMPS 1.4 board, sitting on the Arduino Mega2560 R3, and it is reading... 1000 #define DEFAULT_XYJERK 20.0 #define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4 #define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 Theory: At this point, if I had to guess, it has something to do
I have been using a software called OctoPrint that allows you to control your printer in your Browser. For sake of simplicity I have used Octopi, a preinstalled image with OctoPrint, but now I would like to make some changes, and I decided to build OctroPrint by myself, the instructions for building it are here: https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Setup-on-a-Raspberry-Pi-running-Raspbian... tty pi sudo usermod -a -G dialout pi And then I start the octoprint server ~/OctoPrint/venv/bin/octoprint The webpage of Octoprint freezes I don't know if this is fixed in later commands
terms, I find a lot of images with a component like (1). But nothing on how this and the other components should be put together for the motor holder for an extruder for the Kossel Mini. ...I'm building a Kossel Mini, and I'm stuck on the extruder motor holder. My Kossel came without instructions, I was given a set of instructions by a friend (the "Kossel Build Guide" by Blomker industries). I also found some instructions on the net. However, my components are different from those in the build guides. The question is how these components fit together. I'm pretty certain
-code. I have got something about 0.7, but the extrusion width in g-code is 0.65, so I changed extrusion multiplier by 0.65/0.7 = 0.93 (what is not actually true, because I got correct value on 0.95 only) I have repeated the procedure for many times, and always got wrong dimensions and under extrusion. There is the video about method I just have explained: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v...For last two weeks I have been struggling with flow rate adjustments. I'm using an UM2, colorFabb XT 1.75mm and Slic3r. Before printing a test cube I made flow rate adjustments using the "Perimeter
of those last holes but I have to think that maxing out S3D's outline overlap setting to just barely make the print work means I haven't found or addressed the true root cause... ...I recently changed the printhead on my DeltaMaker from stock to an E3D Lite6, and am struggling to get back to my original quality, reliability, and repeatability. I thought I had gotten the recipe.../stringing issue that I didn't think was but perhaps could be related). The screw hole mounts seem well-designed to me: No 90 degree transitions - I would think this would be the least of my
I am wondering if I can get some electronic and mechanical layout of the machine. Is it possible to make 3D printer components with 3D printer?