I have been studying the differences between version 2.x and version 4 of the P3Steel frames - in particular the AC08 bracket at the top of the frame which secures the top of the smooth bars and threaded rods of the Z axis on both the left and right sides. Here is the laser cut parts, for version 1.x, showing the part labelled as AC08:
Version 1.x/2.x has the AC08 bracket with two holes, one for the threaded rod and one for the top of the smooth bar (from the lasercut image):
However, in version 4, the corresponding top Z axis bracket only has one hole for the smooth bar and just an indentation for the bearing which holds the top of the threaded rod (from Twitter):
Here is a close up of the diagram from the google docs repository, listed in the v4 section on the RepRap Wiki page for the P3Steel, which shows the bearing assembly just apparently "resting" against the indentation:
Here is the bracket shown with the bar and threaded rod (again, from google docs):
Does anyone know why the top of the threaded rod is not secured by a hole, as it was in version 1.x/2.x? It just does not look particularly well secured.
Under the list of version 4 changes it is mentioned:
The extruder no longer hits the Z axis top bracket
Is this the reason why the change has been made?
recomended use aluminum beds for y axis. However, it was suggested, by a vendor, that I use laser cut 6 mm thick MDF, principally for reasons of economics and availablity, over aluminium. I...: Is the difference in density between steel versus aluminium and/or MDF, make it worth switching from steel to aluminium or MDF? Is the additional weight loss of MDF over aluminium worth the risk... concentrating more of the comparison of aluminium and MDF in this post, rather than just steel versus aluminium. Also, my question deals with the Y axis heatbed support, rather than the heatbed itself.
heatbeds can suffer from hotspots, and that is why, apparently, it is sometimes preferrable to use a subsequent aluminium build/print bed on top of that, en lieu of glass plate, in order to even out... thermal conductivity helps spread the heat more evenly? Or, conversely, could the effect of the hotspots be magnified, and actually made worse? Which has fewer hotspots, MK2A, MK2B, or MK3? (I'm.... I am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated
pretty close to dialed in and tried a bigger print last night. It turned out pretty good in most respects except for where vertical structures rise up from the horizontal surface (and a retraction... problems. But last night they had serious problems: I haven't seen a problem like that before. Extrusion rate seems basically perfect - why does it look like it just stopped extruding around...) - there's just one small hole at the base of each structure. (I stopped the print a few layers after the problem layers do ignore the tops.) Going to 99% (Simplify3D's max) would probably get rid
temperature error it says it's 260°C - even if it's left off all night and I unplugged the thermistor. Otherwise, it seems to be fine. I want to know can I just replace it with a thermocouple and a Maxim amplifier board (the one that Marlin supports, I forget the name)? The thermocouple I have in mind is one that has the junction exposed (see image below), does this matter? I plan to re-route...I have bought myself an I3 3D printer - it comes with a thermistor which is then placed into a hole in the hotend and held in place by a grub screw. Sadly due to my lack of care I managed to crush
I was very excited to get my 3d printer but sadly I didn't realise I'd installed the z axis upside down. There's a plastic coupler that goes into the hole for the polished rods it broke then released 1 -2mm sized ball bearing all over my floor. Is it possible to just replace that coupler thingy? Or if I 3d print a replacement will it still need that coupler thingy? The first picture is the one that spilled it's guts all over my kitchen floor. The last image is an example of how it used to look like but on the left hand side. I know the image looks like it's the right but you can see
you can see light shining through the gap. The black cube has it at the top, though it's not deep enough to let light through like with the orange one. There is also an image of the layer preview which shows the same gap. I have a Rostock Max v2 (stock hot end). I am using Matter control using mostly stock settings, I've tweaked around layer height, speed, and temp but I don't think those...I've noticed that some of my prints (mostly square-ish objects) are coming out with gaps between the outside shells and the inner parts. This gap is visible even in the 2D sliced preview
I've just tried to make some small labels with embossed lettering. Base is 1.5 mm, with letters and a perimeter protruding by another 1 mm. After printing, I realised that Cura is not giving me a top layer, all I get is an inner and outer wall for the perimeter and the lettering: The base is OK, with 4 layers, but there is no infill at the top. Presumably there is a setting that I've missed (I can appreciate that maybe this is a detail to the slicing which is model dependant). Layers are 0.2 mm, top and bottom set to 4 layers. I had walls set to 1.6 mm, (4 layers) and the wall features
I have Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops, and I'm building a Prusa i3 Rework. I've recently gotten the x-axis to move, but it needs to stop when it gets to the end and it does not do that; I end up having to pull the plug. From what I understand, there are two ways to wire ends stops in general, but you have to change the settings in the firmware to make it work right. There are 3 connectors...): S (signal) -> S - (ground) -> Normally Open (NO) + (VCC) -> VCC nothing -> Normally Closed (NC) ...but! Screwing this up by either using the wrong firmware of selecting the wrong wire frys
I'm trying to line up the physical print bed of my printer (Printrbot Simple Metal) to the virtual print area of the slicer (Cura). So far, they've never been properly aligned. It was never that big a problem because, worst case scenario, my print would simply not be dead-center on the bed. But I've decided to try and fix it. Here are pictures of a test model in Cura, and the resulting physical print: What's the proper way to align the two? It seems I just got lucky with the x-axis here (though note that the BuildTak surface is a bit off center). But obviously the y-axis needs fixing