Shifted Layers on Replicator 2

Merlin
  • Shifted Layers on Replicator 2 Merlin

    A few weeks ago a shift between layers in the y-direction (from the front to the back of the printer) of my Makerbot Replicator 2 appeared.

    All prints have some small shifts between layers, but if the extruder has to move large distances (e.g. when I print the same object near the front and near the back of the print bed), they can reach up to 2 cm or so. In those cases the extruder seem to move the wrong distance towards the back, resulting in a shifted layer, and then moves about the same distance towards the front. Therefore objects at the front of the bed often are shifted less than at the back. Here's an example of some small shifts in the 3D benchy (printed near the front of the bed). They are particularly obvious in the hull and in the supports of the cabin:

    3D Benchy with shifted layers

    I've tightened the pulleys, lubricated the rods, restored the device to factory settings and made sure the connectors are plugged in properly, but the problems persist. I also have the impression that the locations of the shifted layers are quite reproducible.

    From what I understand problems such as these along the x-axis, are generally caused by broken cables, which are pressed upon as the extruder moves. However, the pulley for the y-axis doesn't move, so it seems unlikely that the cable is the cause.

    Any help is very much appreciated!

  • Its not possible to say without seeing the physical machine but I would assume its a mechanical problem. Perhaps the belt or a gear is worn out missing some piece so it slips sometimes. Or the gear its a little loose on its axle. When machine is off you can move the extruder by hand and try to feel if it does so smoothly.

    I would not think its electrical but first thing to do is to detach all cables and put them back, because its easy to do. Second is the dismount stepper motor and check that its gear is attached firmly. If there is a bad cable then flexing and pulling it slightly might escalate the problem so that its always broken, which can be a good thing since intermittent problems are so hard to find.

    If its the stepper motor driver electronics then a new driver board is needed, last thing to try unless you have two machines and can borrow a part.

    I emailed makerbot support once about another problem, I did get some advice that way.

Tags
print-quality makerbot calibration
Related questions and answers
  • I have a Prusa i3 that I am mostly happy with. However, I am seeing these strange artifacts when the extruder moves along one axis in one direction - in particular from the back of the printer towards the front. The extruded lines look uneven and the surface is quite rough, but only in that area and only while the extruder moves in that direction. Here is a recent print that shows this happen. The pieces were printed side by side, and both of them show this on the left hand side, while the right is okay. I am thinking maybe the extruder tip is slanted (not perpendicular to the bed

  • ) - there's just one small hole at the base of each structure. (I stopped the print a few layers after the problem layers do ignore the tops.) Going to 99% (Simplify3D's max) would probably get rid of those last holes but I have to think that maxing out S3D's outline overlap setting to just barely make the print work means I haven't found or addressed the true root cause... ...I recently changed the printhead on my DeltaMaker from stock to an E3D Lite6, and am struggling to get back to my original quality, reliability, and repeatability. I thought I had gotten the recipe

  • Marlin move axis issue Anton Osadchy

    I have problems with setting up Marlin for my new printer. Each time I rotate the dial, axis move to the same amount. It doesn't matter how much I moved it, to 1mm or to 20 mm (according to screen), axis move to the same really small step. It happens with all of axis. I tried to change step per unit to much higher value and it still does the same. Maybe you have some ideas guys? :)

  • differently, but essentially everything works except the Z-Axis. Problem: The one issue that I seem to be having is with any kind of movement with the Z-Axis. When it moves, whether from the LCD or Repetier, it appears to accelerate as it is supposed to, but then gets stuck/skips a bunch of steps, and then decelerates slowly as it's supposed to. Regardless of the distance I instruct it to move... aligned and the entire Z/X-Axis carriage moves very freely along the vertical rails. The bearings appear to be fine. I then wanted to narrow it down to being the firmware, and not electrical

  • I've noticed that some of my prints (mostly square-ish objects) are coming out with gaps between the outside shells and the inner parts. This gap is visible even in the 2D sliced preview of the layers so I think it must have something to do with slicing settings, but I'm at a loss for what I need to change to fix it. See below for images of the issue. On the orange piece near the right hand side... which shows the same gap. I have a Rostock Max v2 (stock hot end). I am using Matter control using mostly stock settings, I've tweaked around layer height, speed, and temp but I don't think those

  • : Makerbot Replicator with Smart Extruder (not Plus). (I am now at the library with the technician.) Here is a screenshot of what I am trying to print. It is a replacement clip for a messenger bag. So, it has to be 2 inches across. https://flic.kr/p/EtdM6s Here is the printer: https://flic.kr/p/E5F1M6 I used a website to convert the DAE file exported from Sketchup to an STL file...One of the local libraries has a new small Makerbot 3D printer. I have been submitting Sketchup files converted to STL files for printing. The tech guy who runs the printer for patrons is having

  • As you can see in the picture, my heated bed support is too low on the right side, even touching the Y-axis chassis end plate. This is only the case on the front of the printer. The back is perfectly straight. Do you know how this can happen and what can be done?

  • , using Slic3r. I've tried to calibrate the bed as level as I can. I believe the distance to be OK because the skirt prints in straight lines with no wobble. While the overall results aren't that bad, I'm trying to improve the quality. I'm not happy with the first layer: While it sticks to the bed nicely, the printed strands are too far apart - there's a very noticeable gap between them that I can... layer on, that problem disappears. What I've tried so far: change the nozzle and/or bed temperature by 10-20 degrees up or down - no visible change change the print speed (using the dial

  • I'm using brand new PLA filament and am getting frequent clogs in my extruder. I've had this problem with 2 different filaments from 2 different vendors. It will be print just fine, then clog up... clogs below. I have tried using temperature of 220 all the way down to 180 in increments of 5 degrees and seem to get the same result. it prints the base layer GREAT on the 70 degree heated bed.... It had been printing fine with ABS, but the ABS would peel up from the heated bed, so somebody suggested that I use PLA and hairspray. Hairspray is AWESOME !! It sticks really well and removes

Data information