On my Reprap-like 3D printer, I routed all the wires to a spot near the base; for the motors, endstops, thermistors, etc, I plugged them all into a DB25 breakout board, and that's working great.
For my Extruder (12v), and my heat bed (16v), I'm using a 4-pin molex connector -- like we used to use for old hard drives and such, and it's working, but it gets a bit hot, and my print bed is having trouble reaching temperatures that it didn't have trouble with before. -- None of the wiring gets hot at any other point, and none of the other connectors get hot. -- The only thing that gets hot is this one molex connector.
I believe the heat is caused by passing too much current through that molex connector. -- I'm curious to know what other connectors might be better suited to this task. Can you recommend something that's worked well for you, or others?
I prefer not to double or triple up this connector if it can be avoided, so that I can just have one physical connector to disconnect there, and so that I don't end up mixing them up. -- also, being able to easily disconnect it is important (it's hard to work on the reprap if I can't spin it around or turn it over, etc., that's why I'm using connectors for everything).
You might be able to use one of the connectors (Deans Ultra, EC3, XT-60/30, Bullet) that are normally used for RC models. They're made for very high currents. The XT60 connectors depicted below are rated for 60A continuous (well above what you'd need for any heated bed); their smaller XT30 cousins are good for 30A but less commonly available.
For your extruder you wouldn't need anything quite as drastic as an XT60, even a simple JST connector would suffice (though if you are going to source XT60/30's for your heated bed anyway, you might use them here as well).
I agree with Tom's answer about RC connectors. Another good connector option worth considering is Anderson Powerpoles.
Both good options depending on your specific needs.
I've had great luck with "G16 aviation connectors" -- easy to find with a Web search, and they come in any number of pins from 2-10 (the 10s are a little harder to find). Round (so easy to panel-mount), metal barrels, locking ring so they don't come loose. If you get ones with a couple extra pins, you can double up on pins without having to double up on actual connectors. I used a 4-pin for the hot bed (2 power, 2 thermistor); 10-pin for the extruders (4 motor, 2 heater, 2 thermistor, 2 fan), and 8-pin for each axis (4 motor, 4 limit).
I have Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops, and I'm building a Prusa i3 Rework. I've recently gotten the x-axis to move, but it needs to stop when it gets to the end and it does not do that; I end up having to pull the plug. From what I understand, there are two ways to wire ends stops in general, but you have to change the settings in the firmware to make it work right. There are 3 connectors on the board: S (signal) - (ground) + (VCC) My Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops have 4 connectors!!! According to their website, left to right with the white connector facing you, they are as follows
. I am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated Bed Hot Bed for RepRap 3D Printer 12V + Wiring + NTC 3950 Thermistor - Upgrade you Prusa i3 for LARGE Printsize, or this cheaper MK3, Anycubic Dual Power MK3 Heatbed 300*200*3mm Aluminum Heat Bed 12V/24V Perfect for Prusa i3 3D Printer. Note: this is not a shopping question, I am merely providing a background to my questions. While the RepRap wiki is full of information, the information can
] DIY RepRap Prusa I3 3D Printer Kit With Molded Plastic Parts USA Company https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E06IHJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_PgmYxb6DMARET Given the pieces of requirements, do you see this working...I'm new to the 3D printing world, but I've been doing some research over the past couple weeks. I need a printer that is decent enough to make prototypes using simple 3D software (I use Blender... to hold and run screws through etc. I'm probably going to do about 1000 models before getting the right one and creating enough prototypes. I'm fairly good with electronics and should be able to put
I'm having trouble getting my MendelMax 2's heatbed not to heat up when I want to print without it. I don't get how multiple sources of control relate to each other (same with extrusion temperatures...) has an "Options" panel where you can set "Bed temperature" (actually, two settings, one for PLA and one for ABS -- though I doubt the software can test which filament is loaded!) The pronterface GUI... working, to avoid unlimited overheating). I recently tried to print some PLA with no bed heat (using blue tape on the glass build plate). I sliced the model with bed heat off in Slic3r; changed
I'm using brand new PLA filament and am getting frequent clogs in my extruder. I've had this problem with 2 different filaments from 2 different vendors. It will be print just fine, then clog up... clogs below. I have tried using temperature of 220 all the way down to 180 in increments of 5 degrees and seem to get the same result. it prints the base layer GREAT on the 70 degree heated bed. No warping or peeling off. However, after a few layers, it clogs up and stops extruding. I am using an HIC PRUSA I3 printer with a single extruder head. I've only had the printer for a couple weeks
I've heard of 3D printed ears, limbs, and muscles. I assume if you were to attach one of these ears to a person, it wouldn't have a sense of touch and other properties that a real ear would have. So which properties of real human parts does 3D printing allow and which properties is 3D printing not capable of reproducing using current technology. And how do you predict those technologies will change in the future to further improve 3D printing? Also can someone explain how human cells can be printed? Would this involve some kind of cell-plastic filament? How would the cells survive, etc
the green wire does/goes (mine is blue on my machine). The image looks like he just soldered it onto the heat sink pad. I tried to test it by plugging in the power and the RGB LED strip. The stepper motor driver LEDs turned on, but the LED strip and none of the other on-board LEDs turned on. I'm not very seasoned when it comes to electronics, so can anyone explain what the actual pinout should...My Replicator (you know, the one made of balsa wood) has blown a voltage regulator on its MightyBoard for the second time. The first time, MakerBot graciously replaced it. However, they replaced
Has anybody taken apart a da Vinci Jr. 3D printer nozzle? My first time trying to clean the nozzle after it jammed, I broke off the filament immediately before it gets heated, inside the nozzle assembly. The XYZprinting video, "da Vinci Jr. 1.0 - Advanced Nozzle Cleaning", shows the filament coming out easily when heated, but now I'm seeing that I should have cut the filament by the feeder and pulled it out after heating. I have a long length of wire that is similar to the tiny cleaning wire that comes with the kit. Is it safe to heat up the nozzle and push the wire all the way through? I
of taking the material in spool form. My aim is to build a 3d printer which can take materials either in the form of pellets or any other shape. The materials that I want to work with are COC(Cyclic olefin copolymer) and polycarbonates.I have these materials in pellets so need to design an extruder and hot end setup which can directly use these and print . currently I have a Lulzbot Kittaz 3d printer with a single extruder( hexagonal end). Any suggestions where should I start?