I was very excited to get my 3d printer but sadly I didn't realise I'd installed the z axis upside down. There's a plastic coupler that goes into the hole for the polished rods it broke then released 1 -2mm sized ball bearing all over my floor.
Is it possible to just replace that coupler thingy?
Or if I 3d print a replacement will it still need that coupler thingy?
The first picture is the one that spilled it's guts all over my kitchen floor.
The last image is an example of how it used to look like but on the left hand side. I know the image looks like it's the right but you can see a bit of the horizontal rods if look closely
That "plastic coupler thingy" is actually a linear bearing, and it consists of a metal shell, and the metal balls roll between the smooth rod and this shell. The plastic part has a channel that guides the balls in a circle.
It would be best to replace the entire bearing (metal part+balls+plastic liner). It's probably either an LM8UU (most likely) or LM8LUU bearing.
3D Printing a new part will not give good results.
and threaded rods of the Z axis on both the left and right sides. Here is the laser cut parts, for version 1.x, showing the part labelled as AC08: Version 1.x/2.x has the AC08 bracket with two holes, one for the threaded rod and one for the top of the smooth bar (from the lasercut image): However, in version 4, the corresponding top Z axis bracket only has one hole for the smooth bar and just an indentation for the bearing which holds the top of the threaded rod (from Twitter): Here is a close up of the diagram from the google docs repository, listed in the v4 section on the RepRap Wiki page
I have bought myself an I3 3D printer - it comes with a thermistor which is then placed into a hole in the hotend and held in place by a grub screw. Sadly due to my lack of care I managed to crush the wires with a pair of vice pliers whilst trying to remove the nozzle as it was clogged. I have since unblocked it but now every time I turn on the 3D printer instead of giving a minimum temperature error it says it's 260°C - even if it's left off all night and I unplugged the thermistor. Otherwise, it seems to be fine. I want to know can I just replace it with a thermocouple and a Maxim
I've noticed that some of my prints (mostly square-ish objects) are coming out with gaps between the outside shells and the inner parts. This gap is visible even in the 2D sliced preview of the layers so I think it must have something to do with slicing settings, but I'm at a loss for what I need to change to fix it. See below for images of the issue. On the orange piece near the right hand side you can see light shining through the gap. The black cube has it at the top, though it's not deep enough to let light through like with the orange one. There is also an image of the layer preview
The Sainsmart Endstops I picked up are different from the ones described in the RepRap Prusa i3 Rework electronics assembly wiki; they have 4 female plugs that go into the RAMPS 1.4 board instead of 3: Since these endstops are different, how do I hook them up, and what do the markings on them mean?
My printed objects have horizontal holes in them (as seen I the picture below): This doesn't only look bad it also makes the object break at the seems. Looking carefully at the printing process I can see that after a retraction there's a small amount of time the hotend isn't extruding plastic. Material: PLA, Printer Robo 3D R1+, Slicer: Cura
I'm trying to set up OctoPrint on my Linux Ubuntu 16.04 desktop to work with my Micro3D printer. The printer works fine on Mac and Windows: I've installed OctoPrint with the M3D Fio Plugin Manager. I can see the files in ~/.octoprint/ fine and I can even turn the printer fan on/off, move the extruder, etc. through OctoPrint: But when I press the blue "Print button", there is no response. Also the files in the "upload" section are greyed out. Must I download a slicing program or something? I'm new with 3D printing in general but not with Linux. Grateful for help!
And here, I add the dynamic equations and I would like you to check if it is ok ...I have a project in the 3D printing. the aim of the project is to realize the control of the 3D printing. the type of the printer is a printer with cables. the problem seems to have some development both in mechanical and robotics engineering. first of all, as our tutor said, we should find the dynamical and the geometrical equations and from those equations, we can find the algorithm
I have Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops, and I'm building a Prusa i3 Rework. I've recently gotten the x-axis to move, but it needs to stop when it gets to the end and it does not do that; I end up having to pull the plug. From what I understand, there are two ways to wire ends stops in general, but you have to change the settings in the firmware to make it work right. There are 3 connectors on the board: S (signal) - (ground) + (VCC) My Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops have 4 connectors!!! According to their website, left to right with the white connector facing you, they are as follows
I am trying to print a model I designed in Blender on Shapeways. The object has a hole in it: But when I upload it to Shapeways as a STL file, fixed the sizes, but the hole is filled up in the preview window for the object in Shapeways: What could cause this? Will the model print properly? (I cannot share the model here).