Assuming I've extracted 3D models from a game which I legally bought (such as StarCraft). I am allowed to 3D print them for personal use or give it to close friends?
Is there any general rule, or this suppose to be specified in the license? If so, which section/clause potentially can prevent me from doing that? Or I need to contact the company who owns the game to obtain the permission?
No. Such figures are generally covered by copyright, which means that nobody but the copyright holder is allowed to (re-)produce copies of the work. Copyright also covers personal use. In the US there are limited fair use exceptions but they do not apply here.
The only way to do this legally is if it is specifically authorized in a license or if you get permission.
Assuming I've 3D design (or I've created one) which looks very similar to Lego bricks, I am allowed to 3D print them for my personal use? Do I need to obtain some permission to do so, because of some patents? Or how does it work?
I've heard of 3D printed ears, limbs, and muscles. I assume if you were to attach one of these ears to a person, it wouldn't have a sense of touch and other properties that a real ear would have. So which properties of real human parts does 3D printing allow and which properties is 3D printing not capable of reproducing using current technology. And how do you predict those technologies will change in the future to further improve 3D printing? Also can someone explain how human cells can be printed? Would this involve some kind of cell-plastic filament? How would the cells survive, etc
Where i can find DIY-project or tutorial for creating SLA printer for making models of jewelry?
I've made a few 3D prints at school on what I assume are very low-end 3D printers, but they seem cheap, flimsy, and pretty ugly. How much better quality can I expect from professional-level 3D printers (those commonly used by online printing services)?
I'm new to the 3D printing world, but I've been doing some research over the past couple weeks. I need a printer that is decent enough to make prototypes using simple 3D software (I use Blender for 3D models, but won't mind suggestions there also). The prototypes are for cases to hold small electronic components and will be generally around 2*4*4 inches. They will meet to be sturdy enough... it together easily. I've generally heard mixed reviews about different printer sets and I don't have the budget to get one of the higher end models. Found this little number on Amazon : [REPRAPGURU
Is there any well-known test set of 3D models that I can print out which will clearly show up the problems I need to work out in calibrating my 3D printer? Ideally, it would be either one or multiple models which shows the point at which overhanging starts to fail, points at which stringing occurs, the accuracy of one layer over another, and maybe edges which are supposed to be a particular length.
Since iBox Nano is the smallest public-production-available 3d Resin printer (and the cheapest so far), I assume it has a huge size limitation. So far I've only seen pictures of its outputs that are miniature things. I've never tried it nor have I seen it in action in person so I'd like to be sure. For example, my 3d models are of the size of beads to figurines to a standard sized pencil cup holder. I want to know in inches or millimeters the dimension (width, length, height) of the biggest possible object the iBox Nano can print. Thanks!
There is this great hotend called a diamond hotend, which can be used to print in 3 colors and mix them into hundreds? of colors. This can for example be used with Red, Green and Blue filament to mix... voxels to create the appearance of a color, just like monitors display colors. As far as I know only HP Jet Fusion 3D printer uses this process, but it uses a process vastly different from normal diy 3D... theoretical assumptions. I just discovered 3D printing and I am in the planning phase of building my first 3D printer, so I am a total n00b in this. Please correct any assumptions I got wrong.
, using Slic3r. I've tried to calibrate the bed as level as I can. I believe the distance to be OK because the skirt prints in straight lines with no wobble. While the overall results aren't that bad, I'm trying to improve the quality. I'm not happy with the first layer: While it sticks to the bed nicely, the printed strands are too far apart - there's a very noticeable gap between them that I can actually see the second layer through. There appears to be a problem with the second layer as well which always ends up too small (recessed). That's only the second layer, though - from the third