I'm new to the 3D printing world, but I've been doing some research over the past couple weeks.
I need a printer that is decent enough to make prototypes using simple 3D software (I use Blender for 3D models, but won't mind suggestions there also). The prototypes are for cases to hold small electronic components and will be generally around 2*4*4 inches. They will meet to be sturdy enough to hold and run screws through etc. I'm probably going to do about 1000 models before getting the right one and creating enough prototypes.
I'm fairly good with electronics and should be able to put it together easily.
I've generally heard mixed reviews about different printer sets and I don't have the budget to get one of the higher end models.
Found this little number on Amazon : [REPRAPGURU] DIY RepRap Prusa I3 3D Printer Kit With Molded Plastic Parts USA Company https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E06IHJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_PgmYxb6DMARET
Given the pieces of requirements, do you see this working for what I'm looking to do? AND is blender going to be the easiest way to get prototyping models onto this thing or are there easier free software?
Our library system just put a 3D printer in one of the branches. I have used SketchUp on the library computers for a number of years just to do artsy things. Suddenly, I have the opportunity... the STL file to the branch manager who tried to open it in the Makerbot software so that it could be sent to the printer. But, it gave him a message about the file not being recognized. I am... the copies of SketchUp at all the branches just so someone could do 3D printing. After doing some searching on this website, I found out that I could export a COLLADA / dae file from SketchUp. I would
of that as well. At the moment I have some proficiency with Blender where I can navigate the interface and sketch up some simple shaped model without any of the functional parts described above. My question therefore is: Are there any tutorials that could help me create better models? If I need to I'm ready to learn to use a software other than Blender. I've tried searching for a similar question...I've recently bought a 3d printer and waiting for it to be delivered I've given quite a lot of time to looking things up on thingiverse. I see people create incredible models with gears, screws, lids
surfaces, the surfaces usually have a lot of extra support going on -- here's an example of what I'm talking about: Mind you, this is one of the simpler parts. -- But mostly I just want to clean these parts up -- make the edges flat by "filling in" these gaps (because: 1. it will print easier, 2. I can let my slicer handle the infill for me, etc.) Currently, I've been using mostly TinkerCad...I bought a 3D printer kit a few years ago, and it's been working pretty well, the kit was made with injection molded parts. -- It's similar to a Huxley, and through the years, it's started to turn
a custom voltage->temp lookup table, and talks about building a custom table in "configuration.h". I've tried to follow this line of research but I feel like I'm going around in circles. It sounds like I... issue. I'm fairly new to this; I rather not brick my printer, and I haven't found any good guides to installing firmware on the device either. I'm not convinced this is the right option. Should I... like the option to get above 100°C bed temp. Am I on the right track? Suggestions? I'm still pretty new to the device and 3D printing in general, so I may have overlooked something obvious. Update
edition. An example of a metal filament that I found is this Silver PLA 1.75mm Filament. Here's one for Cooper PLA 1.75mm Filament. I would like to make small sculptures or bracelet beads/charms, and whatever else I could think of making using metal. And, I'm asking because I'm new to 3d printing, I want to learn how to work with a 3d printer and M3D is very affordable for me. So I'm making sure before I buy. Note that I've emailed M3D twice and I didn't get any reply. If not M3D, can any other 3D Printer comparable to M3D do this? The MBot Mini, maybe?
One of the local libraries has a new small Makerbot 3D printer. I have been submitting Sketchup files converted to STL files for printing. The tech guy who runs the printer for patrons is having.... It was GreenToken.com. If I open the object's STL file in Tinkercad, the object appears two inches wide. And, if I open the file in one of the 3D printer websites in Tinkercad, the object appears two inches wide... is printed with a base of 2 inches, and the item itself comes out smaller. Does anyone have suggestions about this? I can get more info if someone can give me the right questions to ask. The tech is open
For a while now, I have been thinking about designing things such as small bedside tables, game/dvd/bluray racks for 3d printing. I've always thought that making them modular would be a good way to go about doing this as well. Modular design would help to create an end result that is vastly larger than the print volume of my 3d printer. I might even be able to recycle models for use in other projects. However, I'm not sure of what I need to think about if I decide to go ahead with these ideas I have floating around in my head. I'm assuming that certain joints (dovetail, etc), tolerances
) - there's just one small hole at the base of each structure. (I stopped the print a few layers after the problem layers do ignore the tops.) Going to 99% (Simplify3D's max) would probably get rid of those last holes but I have to think that maxing out S3D's outline overlap setting to just barely make the print work means I haven't found or addressed the true root cause... ...I recently changed the printhead on my DeltaMaker from stock to an E3D Lite6, and am struggling to get back to my original quality, reliability, and repeatability. I thought I had gotten the recipe
I have never much cared about self intersecting meshes when slicing with Cura. Geometry like the one below are often practical. I for instance add lots of rivets that self intersect with the base geometry: Now I have switched printer, and am using Simplify3D instead. All of a sudden, I get lots of problems with these models. The intersection of the objects become hollow. Simplify3D has a setting to join the outer solid shell but it also fills holes (such as the center hole of a gear). I make models to sell so this is a big deal for me. EDIT: Also, they printed perfectly fine in formlabs