How to make E0 and E1 to act as slaves of X and Y in Marlin firmware?

NiNJA3DeR
  • How to make E0 and E1 to act as slaves of X and Y in Marlin firmware? NiNJA3DeR

    I am currently building a CNC machine and have a plan to use my spare MKS Base 1.2 board. I have successfully activated dual X but when ever I try to activate the dual Y option, it throws a compile error.

    BTW, I want to run 5 stepper motors without parallel wiring:

    • 2 for X;
    • 2 for Y, and;
    • 1 for Z.

Tags
marlin
Related questions and answers
  • not sure if this should be a separate question) I would have also asked whether aluminium PCB heatbeds are worth the additional cost, over standard PCB heatbeds, but for the slightly less common dimensions of 200 mm x 300 mm, the costs, of an aluminium PCB heat bed, are roughly the same as standard PCB. Some thermal imaging pictures, comparing standard PCBs with aluminium PCBs, would be appreciated. I am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated

  • I have Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops, and I'm building a Prusa i3 Rework. I've recently gotten the x-axis to move, but it needs to stop when it gets to the end and it does not do that; I end up having to pull the plug. From what I understand, there are two ways to wire ends stops in general, but you have to change the settings in the firmware to make it work right. There are 3 connectors on the board: S (signal) - (ground) + (VCC) My Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops have 4 connectors!!! According to their website, left to right with the white connector facing you, they are as follows

  • ) - there's just one small hole at the base of each structure. (I stopped the print a few layers after the problem layers do ignore the tops.) Going to 99% (Simplify3D's max) would probably get rid of those last holes but I have to think that maxing out S3D's outline overlap setting to just barely make the print work means I haven't found or addressed the true root cause... ...I recently changed the printhead on my DeltaMaker from stock to an E3D Lite6, and am struggling to get back to my original quality, reliability, and repeatability. I thought I had gotten the recipe

  • I have purchased a P3Steel v.4 kit that, rather unfortunately, comes with a steel Y plate. I understand that there may be interia, as well as stepper motor wear, issues related to the weight... recomended use aluminum beds for y axis. However, it was suggested, by a vendor, that I use laser cut 6 mm thick MDF, principally for reasons of economics and availablity, over aluminium. I have subsequently found a supplier of 3 mm thick aluminium 200 mm x 300 mm Y axis plates, so availability is no longer an issue, and the slightly higher cost is not really an issue for me. However

  • between the primary firmware options (Marlin/Repetier) for this setup? From the google code groups, I understand the Repetier has a much cleaner code base, and apparently gives smoother physical performance. Yet, from what I can gather, 95% of the community uses Marlin - is that correct? Given that this printer will have the Pi3 to control "higher functions", is it worth considering a compact...We are custom building a Cartesian 3D printer to be used in a production 3D printing environment, with the following requirements: Intended Z resolution 0.13mm; Dual extruders (primary + support

  • I have been looking at cork sheet insulation for my 200 mm x 300 mm aluminium PCB heatbed, by I am not entirely sure how thick it should be. There seems to be a trade off between losing a few millimeters of print height, and providing adequate installation. I have seen 10 mm thick table mats, and then 5/3/2 mm thick cork insulation tiles. On some forums people say they use two 2 mm sheets... as a how-long-is-a-piece-of-string type question. I am just trying to get the right amount in the first place whilst spending as little as possible, and keeping the mass/volume and height down

  • is printed with a base of 2 inches, and the item itself comes out smaller. Does anyone have suggestions about this? I can get more info if someone can give me the right questions to ask. The tech is open... to create it's own base and supports. Additional info: When I printed it by letting Makerbot create the base and supports, it came out to be 1 3/4" as shown here: https://flic.kr/p/EashnD Printer...One of the local libraries has a new small Makerbot 3D printer. I have been submitting Sketchup files converted to STL files for printing. The tech guy who runs the printer for patrons is having

  • I have noticed that Slic3r offers a speed setting called "auto speed" meant to give a constant filament pressure at the extruder, which I believe could eliminate filament grinding issues at higher printing speeds. According to the tooltip in Slic3r, auto speed is calculated from two parameters: Maximum speed Maximum volumetric speed Maximum speed speaks for itself, but how can I calculate the maximum volumetric speed of my print?

  • I have used cyanoacrylate glue aka superglue to bond PLA. I have created several electronics enclosures. (Definitely the most time-consuming part of the project.) Now my question is which debonder/solvent can I use to separate the pieces again without destroying the PLA parts? Wikipedia proposes the following: nitromethane dimethyl sulfoxide, methylene chloride, gamma-Butyrolactone.

Data information