Connecting Sain Smart Mechanical End Stops to Ramps 1.4?

  • Connecting Sain Smart Mechanical End Stops to Ramps 1.4? leeand00

    I have Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops, and I'm building a Prusa i3 Rework.

    I've recently gotten the x-axis to move, but it needs to stop when it gets to the end and it does not do that; I end up having to pull the plug.

    From what I understand, there are two ways to wire ends stops in general, but you have to change the settings in the firmware to make it work right.

    There are 3 connectors on the board:

    • S (signal)
    • - (ground)
    • + (VCC)

    My Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops have 4 connectors!!!

    According to their website, left to right with the white connector facing you, they are as follows:

    enter image description here

    1. S
    2. Normally Closed (NC)
    3. Normally Open (NO)
    4. VCC

    Now it seems to me that if I take those connections and connect them as follows it should work...(ramps on the left, sainsmart end stop on the right):

    1. S (signal) -> S
    2. - (ground) -> Normally Open (NO)
    3. + (VCC) -> VCC
    4. nothing -> Normally Closed (NC)

    ...but! Screwing this up by either using the wrong firmware of selecting the wrong wire frys your board, so I thought I'd ask here. Sources please.

  • The multiple connections are redundant. Your picture indicates the wires labelled as "SIGNAL, GND, GND, VCC". This is correct if the board is a "standard" mechanical endstop v1.2. The two middle pins are both ground, but you only need to use one of them.

    You can simply connect signal to signal and ground to ground. That is sufficient for the endstop to work. You only need to connect VVC to VVC if you want the LED that's on the board to function.

ramps-1.4 prusa-i3-rework marlin firmware endstop
Related questions and answers
  • very well until it started giving the same problem as the first Arduino board. Someone can tell me if I have done something wrong, or is it the RAMPS board that does not work properly? EDIT: I read...This is my problem: I'm assembling a 3D printer with the RAMPS 1.4 board and Arduino Mega. I have assembled the structure and the electronics (set drivers, placed the jumpers, connected stepper motors...) and have uploaded Marlin firmware (configuring: thermistor, endstops...) on the Arduino Mega. I've tried to connect, via USB, to the computer and using the Repetier software I have commanded

  • even shorted the signal and ground pins on the Ramps board with a jumper wire and I still haven't seen any change. Where is the fault at? ...I have an old Solidoodle 2 that I bought broken from a garage sale that I am converting to use RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin Firmware. All the motors work correctly, I am just having issues getting the endstops to work. I am using a regular limit switch with NC going to the signal pin and the other to ground. I have this switch plugged into first header column for X-min. My endstop configuration

  • You may want to use this code to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares. I'm planning on: Flashing the test firmware onto the Arduino Mega 2560, then unplugging it from the USB. Connecting RAMPS 1.4 Connecting all 3 jumpers under the X-Axis (leaving the other jumpers disconnected). Connecting a stepper driver to the X-Axis on the board. Turning the trimpot down all the way, and then back up 1/4th of the way. Plugging in 1 NEMA 17 motor to the X-Axis. Connecting 5A DC input into RAMPS 1.4 (not plugged in). Finally plugging it in and seeing

  • Background: I just successfully installed a RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Display on my Prusa i3; and in doing so, I've upgraded all of the firmware to the latest version of Marlin, 1.1.0-RC7. With my.... For the record, maybe I'm missing something obvious, so please let me know. I measured the voltage on my A4988 stepper drivers on the RAMPS 1.4 board, sitting on the Arduino Mega2560 R3, and it is reading... haven't checked in the section, logically analyzing, is the wires going from the board to the motors themselves, but based on the following, I don't believe that is the issue. (Although I have been

  • I have captured several models using 123D Catch and Autodesk ReCap 360. I do all my "clean up" work in MeshMixer to prepare the models for printing, and while exporting to STL works great... or iMaterialise) and have them printed on high end color machines. My current workflow goes as follows. Export raw model (OBJ) from 123D Catch or ReCap. Open model in MeshMixer v10.10.170. Remove... with either jumbled or nonexistent textures when it's uploaded to an online service. I'm guessing I'm exporting the file wrong for 3D printing, or possibly that I need to do some post-export editing

  • The Sainsmart Endstops I picked up are different from the ones described in the RepRap Prusa i3 Rework electronics assembly wiki; they have 4 female plugs that go into the RAMPS 1.4 board instead of 3: Since these endstops are different, how do I hook them up, and what do the markings on them mean?

  • I'm looking to make 20-30 IoT devices, with the pi zero. The price point is perfect, the only downside is that it doesn't have an Ethernet jack and the power adapter is not included. I found a mod that deals with both of these issues, however it would involve a lot of soldering. The mod takes a USB to Ethernet adapter and 48 to 5 volt converter and allows the device to be both powered... to print or mill something that will do the 48 to 5 volt conversion? Components: Two male micro USB heads 48 to 5 volt converter Ethernet adapter board Pi zero

  • guide RepRap - Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide - 16 Common 3D Printing Problems (And Solutions) Do you have an idea what can cause this issue? Update I did a new print, where I just...I recently upgraded to a E3D full hotend and I started to have problems with slowly printed parts. After I print first object and start next one, then the first layer has serious issue. The first two test were extruded around 10mm/s, the right one around 15mm/s. The material is PLA ( at temperature 210°C and nozzle diameter is 0.4mm. The Rebel II RepRap printer uses RAMPS

  • I have a Monoprice Maker Select, which is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator I3 V2 (Prusa clone). I've found that the heated bed temperature values on the LCD are incorrect. The heater works.... I believe the the firmware is using the wrong temperature curve for the thermistor in my device. I had hoped that there was a simple scaling constant that I could adjust, but that doesn't seem... issue. I'm fairly new to this; I rather not brick my printer, and I haven't found any good guides to installing firmware on the device either. I'm not convinced this is the right option. Should I

Data information