Trying to flash Davinci XYZ 1.0, nothing but black bars

Zoey Boles
  • Trying to flash Davinci XYZ 1.0, nothing but black bars Zoey Boles

    I get nothing but black bars and "Unknown USB Device" from Windows 10. This is after a failed flash that was otherwise going directly according to plan.

    This Davinci has been nothing but frustration for me, and I'm really tired of fruitless Google-Fu.

    Much of what I see pretty much says it's bricked; attempting to jump the jp1 jumper any further does me no good.

    Is there anything I can do to actually move forward, or are we in soldering-iron territory now?

  • I had this occur on my MakerBot Replicator Dual after I tried repairing a blown voltage regulator. If you refer to the previous link to my SE question, pay attention to the comments of Ryan's answer where it is explained that (in my case at least) the main processor was damaged and therefore couldn't properly load the firmware. The machine was able to load just enough to initialize the chip on the LCD screen, but since the main boards processor was blown, couldn't load the firmware to send commands to the screen and continue the boot sequence.

    I'm not certain that you're encountering the same EXACT issue, but you have all of the same side effects that I did. Basically, if you're not pro with electronics, your board is bricked. Otherwise, you might be able to salvage the board by replacing the processor, but there's no guarantee that something else isn't wrong or that the new processor was installed correctly.

Related questions and answers
  • A comment to my question How much insulation do I really need? has made me paranoid about using cork as a heatbed insulator: Why worry -- other than the fact that it's flammable. All that's needed to start a fire is having the thermistor fail or come loose. I'd use a flameproof material if you're going to insulate. The flash point (ignition temperature) of cork is, apparently, 300 - 320°C1, which is not, as far as I can tell, a temperature that the heatbed reaches, so, in theory, cork should be safe to use as an insulator. In fact temperatures of around 300C are used

  • When I use Cura with the Pronterface UI it sometime just stops printing. When it stops the printer just stops, the UI looks like it's still printing but nothing is moving in the printer, also, trying to control the printer from the UI does nothing. It always stops early in the printing process, usually during the auto-leveling process or while printing the skirt, the latest it happened was during the first solid layer of a raft. Usually closing the printing window and re-opening it solves the problem but not always, this never happened to me with the basic UI, I couldn't find any settings

  • I have a printrbot simple metal with the heated bed upgrade. Its been working fine until Cura updated, now, after the x,y, and z axis zeros, the print starts without moving to the other corners and auto leveling the bed. Does the new version of cura require me to turn the function on or should i try to re flash the printers firmware? Thoughts? Thanks. UPDATE using an older version of Cura, the printer auto levels and works as expected. Is there any clue why the new update of cura stops this function?

  • driver and they seems to work all well. So the problem must be on the Arduino or on the motherboard! I bought new step driver a new step motor and new Arduino + motherboard, connected all up and nothing...I'm writing this Question here hoping someone will be able to help me with the fixing process that I'm currently involved in! Last week during a printing session my Ultimaker original unexpectedly stop working. The problem was on the extruder step motor which push the filament from the back and literally is not moving anymore! The first thing I have done was to check if the motor was burn

  • then import that dae file into Blender (The portable version on my flash drive). I could then export it as an STL file. The process appeared to work. I could see my test object in Blender. I gave... not familiar with all the details in the importing and exporting processes that are going on. Is there someone out there that can give me some help? One problem is that, I am using the library computers. I...Our library system just put a 3D printer in one of the branches. I have used SketchUp on the library computers for a number of years just to do artsy things. Suddenly, I have the opportunity

  • screws are 2cm long and 3mm wide. The stepper motor is a Wantai Stepper Motor Model 42BYGHW811 . I have e-mailed the company where I bought my kit and am awaiting their answer. Meanwhile I'm hoping... terms, I find a lot of images with a component like (1). But nothing on how this and the other components should be put together for the motor holder for an extruder for the Kossel Mini. ...I'm building a Kossel Mini, and I'm stuck on the extruder motor holder. My Kossel came without instructions, I was given a set of instructions by a friend (the "Kossel Build Guide" by Blomker

  • me is, that the this rocker switch on the back reads 10A 250V~ so I'm wondering if it's safe to use. The switch will be connected to the house mains via a plug and wired just like in the this thingiverse project, so it can be the input into my OEM Power Supply via the black (hot - L), white (Common - N) and Green (Ground) wires. For the connecting wires I stripped a black PC Tower wire to get...I ordered an OEM Power Supply and I intend to hook up with this rocker switch I believe it's like the one specified in the Power Supply Documentation which reads: In the US, IEC320 C14 plug

  • : S Normally Closed (NC) Normally Open (NO) VCC Now it seems to me that if I take those connections and connect them as follows it should work...(ramps on the left, sainsmart end stop on the right...I have Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops, and I'm building a Prusa i3 Rework. I've recently gotten the x-axis to move, but it needs to stop when it gets to the end and it does not do that; I end up having to pull the plug. From what I understand, there are two ways to wire ends stops in general, but you have to change the settings in the firmware to make it work right. There are 3 connectors

  • of that as well. At the moment I have some proficiency with Blender where I can navigate the interface and sketch up some simple shaped model without any of the functional parts described above. My question therefore is: Are there any tutorials that could help me create better models? If I need to I'm ready to learn to use a software other than Blender. I've tried searching for a similar question...I've recently bought a 3d printer and waiting for it to be delivered I've given quite a lot of time to looking things up on thingiverse. I see people create incredible models with gears, screws, lids

Data information