Has anybody taken apart a da Vinci Jr. 3D printer nozzle?
My first time trying to clean the nozzle after it jammed, I broke off the filament immediately before it gets heated, inside the nozzle assembly. The XYZprinting video, "da Vinci Jr. 1.0 - Advanced Nozzle Cleaning", shows the filament coming out easily when heated, but now I'm seeing that I should have cut the filament by the feeder and pulled it out after heating.
I have a long length of wire that is similar to the tiny cleaning wire that comes with the kit. Is it safe to heat up the nozzle and push the wire all the way through?
I tried pushing from the other direction with the large cleaning tool (as shown in video). I also tried heating the tip of the filament and pushing it to the jammed filament inside the nozzle and reconnecting it. It held a while as I tried wiggling it when heated but did not break the jam loose and broke off again...
What should I do?
motors...) and have uploaded Marlin firmware (configuring: thermistor, endstops...) on the Arduino Mega. I've tried to connect, via USB, to the computer and using the Repetier software I have commanded... with USB and RAMPS 1.4 was connected to the power supply from the two terminals. When the new Arduino arrived, I connected the whole (without connecting the screen) and tried. The printer worked... that the endstops can cause this problem. I have these endstops: 1 PZ di Alta Qualità Finecorsa Meccanico Per rampe Reprap 1.4 stampante 3D Con imballaggio indipendente kit fai da te and I connected
not sure if this should be a separate question) I would have also asked whether aluminium PCB heatbeds are worth the additional cost, over standard PCB heatbeds, but for the slightly less common.... I am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated... the hotspots, as the aluminium's greater thermal conductivity helps smooth out the hotspots, by distributing the heat more efficiently than a glass plate can. However, it doesn't describe the heating effect
. It doesn't ever seem to go more than 5 minutes before clogging. When it clogs, and I pull out the filament, it is always twisted in a spiral (helix) shape like a corkscrew. I have put a picture of 2 clogs below. I have tried using temperature of 220 all the way down to 180 in increments of 5 degrees and seem to get the same result. it prints the base layer GREAT on the 70 degree heated bed. No warping or peeling off. However, after a few layers, it clogs up and stops extruding. I am using an HIC PRUSA I3 printer with a single extruder head. I've only had the printer for a couple weeks
only) I have repeated the procedure for many times, and always got wrong dimensions and under extrusion. There is the video about method I just have explained: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v... than expected (0.4mm shorter than they should be). I have done this a few times now, and still get the same result. :/ Furthermore, I was unable to adjust width by dividing the desired value...For last two weeks I have been struggling with flow rate adjustments. I'm using an UM2, colorFabb XT 1.75mm and Slic3r. Before printing a test cube I made flow rate adjustments using the "Perimeter
My Makerbot Replicactor V2 constantly jams. Usually when I go to use it after it's been off for a few hours the filament has jammed and I have to take off the front fan to remove the filament. Today, after going through the usual rigmarole of having to take the front fan and fan guard off, remove the filament, cut it and then load it back in I found that there was another problem. It appears something is jammed inside the hot end itself. When I loaded the filament back into the machine, it took it but nothing came out of the nozzle, instead it all pooled up around the aluminium mounting
shells (maybe should try 3?) 30% infill, 60% outline overlap, 110% infill extrusion width Temp is 220°C (thermocouple wedged between nozzle and heater block reports about 206°C when thermistor says... of those last holes but I have to think that maxing out S3D's outline overlap setting to just barely make the print work means I haven't found or addressed the true root cause... ... pretty close to dialed in and tried a bigger print last night. It turned out pretty good in most respects except for where vertical structures rise up from the horizontal surface (and a retraction
I recently bought a Geeetech Prusa i3 x. After two full days assembling I can finaly try to print something. Having put in the filament into the extruder no filament actually came out of the nozzle. I opened up my extruder and the filament seems to be stuck in the nozzle. Note that I have tried heating the nozzle up and both pushed and pulled but no movement. Does anyone know what to do? Thanks, Merijn
type wire. I also read a forum somewhere in which people were complaining about the cheapness of the wire in this kit, stating that one ought to wear gloves when working with it as there is probably lead in the insulation as well as the wire. The largest copper wire I have found in the table that I have (AWG 10) says that it is rated at 30 AMP regardless of which type of insulation it has...I'm still looking at wires for my Prusa i3, to go between the power supply and RAMPS 1.4, and the power supply and the MK2a Heatbed. I also recently found a 400 ft. Wire Storehouse that I bought
Ironing out all my worries before buying my first 3D printer. I'm looking at getting the da Vinci miniMaker 3D printer as my first 3D printer, but it doesn't come with a heated bed. On my previous question about heating beds effect on a print, I was told that I need to use a raft to compensate for the absence of a heated bed. What I want to know is, does the software that comes with the printer allow the creation of rafts whilst/prior to printing? Or will it create rafts if need be?