For a large scale project, I need a slicer which gives me the slices as image (BMP or vector). I have a 3d model and want to assemble it manually using large printouts on cardboard. For this I need my 3d model somehow sliced into 2mm layers, get a silhouette of the outline for every layer and print it in cardboard. Later all cardboard layer will be cutted manually and glued in the right order.
Does somebody know a slicer, which gives me as output images for every slice? Or any different idea how to geht my large cardboard 3d model?
Your approach is one of many and you may find that Slic3r will do as you require.
There's a direct reference to generating SVG files (vector) at this link: http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/svg-output
You may have to create a printer profile based on irrational figures when compared to conventional 3d printers. Your 2mm "layer height" should be matched in the printer settings to an appropriate nozzle diameter for the desired result.
You may find also that Simplify3d will create such files, but it's not a free program.
An alternative to 3d printer slicing software would be to use OpenSCAD to import your model (or create it directly in code) and use the Projection command to generate the individual layers. I've done this and found it works well, but the process to learning the necessary code was time consuming, as I'm not a programmer.
You would also want to incorporate some form of registration in your model, cylindrical holes or external tabs to enable you to properly align each cardboard layer.
If you have a makerspace nearby or know someone with a suitably sized laser cutter, you may also save some labor cutting each panel, as the laser will accept the vector files easily.
design the whole part and then I slice it with planes or lines. In these cases I need to push/pull afterwards each contact surface manually by the same amount (0.2-0.5 mm) and that is a time consuming task. Another option is to use a cutter to remove the outer surface layer (basically I remove the rigged surface, making it smooth again) but it's not safe and even more time consuming. How can I quickly generate said controlled gaps on the contact surfaces between two objects, but not on the rest of the object? to make it everywhere I could use shells, I guess, but I don't need
I'm using Cura with the Pronterface UI to slice/print and sometimes printing just stops - always in the first layer - when it happens the printing screen shows "Waiting for user", when I press the button on the printer printing resumes. I don't know when this happens, it just happens about once every 5-10 prints, when this happens if I close the printing window and immediately click "print... option because when I'm fine-tuning a model it much more convenient to send a test print from the computer and not copy the gcode to an SD card and print from the printer. My printer is Robo3D R1+
I have been using Solidworks and AutoCAD to create STL file of a 3D model I want to print. I slice the STL file using Freesteel Z level slicer (http://www.freesteel.co.uk/wpblog/slicer/) and save the slices in a bmp format. My 3d print has an array of circular channels, all of one radius. I expected the bmp slice to contain the circular shapes looking exactly identical to each other. However, I don't obtain the exact same replicas. Looks like the pixel-wise mapping has not been done uniformly. (View http://s24.postimg.org/p7w09zvkl/snippet.png for the image). I want each and every circle
I've just tried to make some small labels with embossed lettering. Base is 1.5 mm, with letters and a perimeter protruding by another 1 mm. After printing, I realised that Cura is not giving me a top layer, all I get is an inner and outer wall for the perimeter and the lettering: The base is OK, with 4 layers, but there is no infill at the top. Presumably there is a setting that I've missed (I can appreciate that maybe this is a detail to the slicing which is model dependant). Layers are 0.2 mm, top and bottom set to 4 layers. I had walls set to 1.6 mm, (4 layers) and the wall features
It occurs to me that I'm never really thinking about layer height when I calibrate my z-probe offset. This is obviously an oversight, because I'll want my nozzle to start higher for 0.3mm layers than for 0.1mm layers. After this realization comes the question: Do I need to recalibrate every time I switch to a different layer height? Or can slicers store a reference layer height + probe offset and just deduce the proper starting height for every print? Or is it smartest to keep the 1st layer height constant throughout my prints to spare myself this frustration? If it matters, my printer
I've captured a stationary spinning object in a computer game. It's semi translucent and there are stationary objects behind it. As I expected it did not convert using Autodesk's remake. It gives no explanation other than 'Error'. I obviously can't paint the object. Are there any techniques in Photoshop that will let me manually fix the images to reduce the translucency? Any other program that might produce a mesh from images? The game objects can't be extracted via any other program I've tried.
I am trying to find programs that can import and export 3MF file formats. I know that Cura 15.10 beta can open 3MF formats, but I am looking for a program that open, edit and save 3MF files. I am very interested in finding a more portable file format for my 3D designs. If you are not aware the 3MF format promises to provide a "replacement" for STL files that contains the complete model information, theoretically allowing us to slice and edit the same file. http://3mf.io/
(resistance value around ~200 kΩ at room temperature). Which leads me to believe that I may have damaged the control board. What do I do? Note: This is not a firmware problem as the printer...I just got my HICTOP Prusa i3 Aluminium frame printer and finished putting it together. After setting it to preheat, I realized the bed was not level - I adjusted it and accidentally caused the head... is that a thin layer came off the printbed - After testing with a multimeter, I realized that the metal under this layer is connected to power. As both the bed and hotend were heating, I believe I may
So, have a plastic car part I want to duplicate because the driver side part is broken (I have the passenger side part) and It isn't sold anymore. It's a small piece that would be an excellent candidate for a 3D printed replacement. I know there are companies I can send a 3D model to that will happily print it for me, but I also need to create a 3D model from the part. Is there a company or service that I could mail the part to that would return it along with a 3D model of it?